Photo Commentary on Grenada – by the Mom

GRENADA ! !

Our first REAL Caribbean Island. ( According to some people Trinidad doesn’t quite qualify.)

Grenada is a popular ‘stay over’ destination for cruisers during the Hurricane season as Hurricanes so seldom hit this far South. It is THE  place to  go if you are interested in meeting fellow cruisers. We found the amount of boats quite overwhelming, especially when trying to anchor. BUT….

For the first time in 3 months, we were able to swim next to the boat.

 

 

Windward Islands – Marike

Before I start this blog, I would just like to mention the fact that if you wish to view see the photos better, you can actually click on them, and they will enlarge to their full size on a new tab. I recently figured it out myself, so just in case anyone else was getting frustrated with the tiny photos 😉

 

These past two weeks we have been spending at Martinique – but since nothing specific really happened, because of my dad’s knee (more on that later) I’ll tell you about some of the other islands we visited in the windward chain.

So obviously we sailed on from Grenada, where we had hooked up with our Brazilian friends on AmarSemFim (Love without end). It was great to have friends to enjoy the experiences with, especially since they’re also Christians! We have spent quite a lot of our time on their boat since then.

From Grenada, we spent some time before Christmas at Carriacou. Especially at Sandy Island, which is a strip of mini-island that is more like a beach.

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The (somewhat fuzzy, because of camera housing) view from Sandy Island of Shang Du. Sophia and Maria on the photo.

The (somewhat fuzzy, because of camera housing) view from Sandy Island of Shang Du. Sophia and Maria on the photo.

On one specific day, we all went to the beach with the two Yoshima kids. Dad, Mom, Franci and I took to the water and went snorkelling. I think the younger kids also did some swimming and snorkelling, but when I came out they were most definitely running around on the shore. When Franci and I went to investigate (and put our newly acquired sea urchin skeletons on Shampoo) we were intrigued to find a hermit crab farm. (Or hole.)

Maria, Juca, Sophia . . . and I think Karin helped too, but I’m not completely sure . . . had found a lot of land hermit crabs walking around the island. (Or rather, hiding under the trees.) Using a plastic cup and their hands, they had carried all of them to the beach to put them together in a hole they had dug for the purpose. On further investigation, it was revealed that they had first tried putting them in a kind of mini pen built from sticks and rocks. However, since this barrier seemed to go completely unnoticed by the hermit crabs, they soon abandoned it for the more practical hole in the sand.

Unfortunately this method too had a drawback – the slope of the hole wasn’t steep enough to keep the busy hermit crabs inside, and so there always had to be someone on duty to flick them back into the hole when they started climbing too high. Franci and I took a turn at this, but we felt bad about just flicking them so that they rolled down the slope, so we took each individual by the shell and gently lifted them back to the bottom. The hermit crabs were too fast for us (very industrious, those hermit crabs) and so I’m sure we lost a few . . .

Don't worry - eventually we all let them go again. =)

Don’t worry – eventually we all let them go again. =)

There was some enjoyable diving around there, but we had to hire a guide, so we only went twice.

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All of us after the dive. (From left to right) Matt; Karin Jr.; Marike; Frans; Sophia; Karin; Franci and Uncle Ricardo – from AmarSemFim

Sophia holding aloft her prize

Sophia holding aloft her prize

We celebrated Franci’s birthday there, and also the fact that we’ve been sailing for a year now!

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Birthday-girl turns sixteen <3

When the Christmas winds started howling through, we decided that the best course of action was to get to a nice safe anchorage so that Christmas eve and Christmas itself could be relaxed. So we cleared out of Grenada (Carriacou and Grenada are under one government) and sailed over to Union Island.

Union Island is part of the group of small islands called ‘the Grenadines’ which fall under ‘St Vincent and the Grenadines’. We had to clear in at Clifton bay, but it was really crowded and exposed to the wind, with unsure holding for the anchor. We weren’t sure that the boat would be okay, so my mom, Franci and I stayed on the boat while my dad and the two younger girls went to clear us in at customs and immigration. Just in case we had to suddenly start the engine or something.**

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Clifton Bay

Thankfully, we were fine, but we weighed anchor asap, and motored around to the other side of the island to a nice protected anchorage. Also very crowded (in Brazil I can remember it only ever being us who actually stayed over-night in most of the anchorages at Ilha Grande) but it at least didn’t feel unsafe (as if we were going to swing into anybody).

We spent Christmas there, and had a lovely time. We took out our little wire baobab that we had bought before leaving South Africa, and decorated it with a bag of quality street sweets!

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I learned how to make “Uncle Ricardo special bread” ^_^. Very funny – Uncle Ricardo (Brazilian boat) has this standard bread recipe (Italian, I think) that he makes, and it’s very nice. So he taught us(i.e. me) how to make it on Christmas Eve, so I tried it out that same evening. (It has to rise for about 8-10 hours before you can actually bake it, so I was making it for the next morning.) I think it was a success – I’ve made it quite a few times since then.

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Me sitting on the flood and kneading the “Uncle Ricardo Special Bread” 😉

Not much going on on land, so we never ventured there. The water wasn’t as beautiful as in Clifton, because it was deeper and had ground/mud/grass as a bottom and not white sand. (That is what gives the water the amazing blueness – the white sand just a few metres under the surface. Of course, the water needs to be clean too for the full effect 😉

After Union Island, we headed to Tobago Cays. (Pronounced ‘To-bay-go Keys’ ) It was lovely there. Enough reef to make it shallow enough to make the white sand give that beautiful effect, and lovely little islets.

Mom + view

Mom + view

The Tobago Cays basically consist of a few islets surrounded by reefs. Behind the reefs there is quite good anchoring, but it’s very exposed to wind. When we first arrived everyone was hiding behind the little islands, because the Christmas winds were still hurrying past with full force.

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Sophia with the pale pink, and myself in the black – and in the upper left hand corner you can see Shang Du

There were a lot of boats – I assume partly because it was holiday (between Christmas and New year) and partly just because the Caribbean is getting crowded. Every morning there would be these HUGE charter boats coming in to anchor some way off, then they would send out little speed boats packed with people who came to spend their day on the white beaches. The ships weren’t those humungous white cruisers (although we did see some of them in Grenada), they were . . . I suppose technically they should be able to sail, but I’m sure they never really did. Some of them looked newer – all white with four or five masts. Others looked more ‘pirate-ship’y, and had about three to four masts. These were the ones who had a more wooden aspect about them.

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Left there is a super yacht, and the other two are examples of the bigger yachts that bring people to the island. (The little white sail is a normal mono-hull 😉

This photo was actually taken at Union Island, while we were anchored in protected Chatham Bay, but the same boats kept coming around, so the principle is solid

This photo was actually taken at Union Island, while we were anchored in protected Chatham Bay – but this was a nice close-up of the one we saw at Tobago Cays.

The most numerous yachts are those that we call the ‘chocolate boxes.’ (We borrowed this term from Martinique, a woman who wrote about her sailing experience as a child in the book ‘Thinking up a hurricane’.) These boats are very obviously the charter crowd, who have huge ‘Sunsail’ prints on their sail covers and boats. They anchor and relax in their swimming things, obviously not cruisers. (Identifiable by lack of ‘stuff’ on deck.)

The super yachts (fun to watch) are those that very often have a jet-ski or two strapped to the front. They are the huge, sleek, expensive private yachts that always have about two crew members in uniform doing all the sailing, winching, driving, etc., while the family (or whoever owns the boat) does the swimming and tanning. 😉 We had one anchored some distance from us, but without any boats in between, so we got to know it a little in the time we were there.

You had to pay to stay at Tobago Cays (it’s a marine park, you see) but it wasn’t too expensive. Diving, however, was out of the question – waaaaaaay too expensive! (Again, it’s a marine park . . .)

We could however snorkel whenever we felt like it. We (Dad, Mom, Franci and I) went once with Shampoo to one of the less crowded beaches, and snorkelled all around the island. (We literally swam around the island) and it was nice. We saw two turtles, and some fish life, some coral and a huge red sea star. (Sophia and Karin stayed home and baked banana bread.)

Before we left the boat, we told them to bake banana bread, since we had some very ripe bananas - and they did! Found the recipe and did it all on their own. ^_^

Before we left the boat, we told them to bake banana bread, since we had some very ripe bananas – and they did! Found the recipe and did it all on their own. ^_^

Another time only my dad, Franci and I went. We tied to a tiny little mooring in the middle of one of the reefs, and snorkelled around there for an hour or two. It was very cool – we saw three rays, and a nurse shark! I think that’s the first time I’ve seen a shark since I was twelve . . . maybe thirteen. Really cool.

The islets were pretty much deserted – with some trails going through them. True, one was overrun by iguanas but there were no buildings on the islands.

We did a specific trip to this little island to take pictures of the iguanas. It was strange, but we only ever really found iguanas on this islet.

We did a specific trip to this little island to take pictures of the iguanas. It was strange, but we only ever really found iguanas on this islet.

We felt as though we got through what there was to see fairly quickly, and so decided to be off to Bequia.

Tell you about that later . . .

 

**You can go have a peak at Clifton bay on Google earth. It is really small, with reef around protecting the anchorage, and then a huge reef right in the middle too! We had to anchor on the west side of the middle reef, since it was way too crowded on the other side.

Grenada – by Karin Joan

Well lets get started I will tell you of our travels in a very weird order, so you have to pay close attention.

I’m going to start in Grenada.

In Grenada we arrived at three in the morning. I had the middle watch so I was awake, but actually it was during the last watch that we arrived and that was Marike’s watch. But I just didn’t go to bed till we arrived and dropped anchor. I was very full of energy for some reason or other, but went to sleep like the rest of my family.

I woke up at nine in the morning ready for breakfast. We ate in the cockpit that morning. and we were looking around us at the other boats, when in the middle of breakfast someone called us on the radio, we did not recognise the voice but we answered, (the hailing channel in the Caribbean so far is 68). it turned out to be the French family we met in Rio:

They live on a boat named Mambala. The Mom and Dad both have long French names that English people struggle to pronounce. But their names sort of sound like the English names Mark and Anna (but he spells his name Marc).

 

Well, they have three kids: Basil a boy of about 9-10 and twin girls as alike as Logan and Jedi. They look very the same at first glance but if you look closer you can suddenly see the obvious differences. I could honestly not tell the difference between them (Logan and Jedi) for a very long period. Well I think Lila and Anet are about 7 years old. The kids can’t speak English which isn’t very nice, but since they are way younger than us its not that bad, but if they were our ages we would definitely have put in more of an effort.

 

The day went on. We went ashore to clear in, It was a Saturday so it was slightly more expensive but it was ok.

After we cleared in we decided to go look around on land, so we went to another dingy dock. This dingy dock was right next to a restaurant with glass walls so that you could see in and out of the building. We went to the mall because my mom wanted some pens, and as always we were looking around for postcards. It wasn’t very entertaining. But there were a lot of odds and ends shops. My mom got her pens and we went on. We ate lunch at the mall – these small sandwiches.

 

We headed back to the boat and got a Taxi bus back. A Taxi Bus, as I have decided to call them, is as big as one of those taxies in south Africa but the locals call them busses. When we got back the taxi dropped us at the top of the driveway, (I don’t think that is the appropriate word for it but that is what it seemed to be.) It is a very down hill road leading to the restaurant parking lot. As we were turning to go down the hill another one came past us and went down the little hill. The people inside it were shouting their hellos to us and waving their arms through the windows. The car stopped in the parking lot, before they started piling out we saw that they were the French people from Mambala! We went down the hill and greeted them. They had gone to the airport t get Anna’s parents, who had come over to cruise with them for a while. So they hired a Taxi. (Explaining why theirs went down the hill but why ours didn’t).

 

I don’t like he way the French greet. They come over to you say hello and kiss you on each cheek. Thank goodness the kids don’t have to but that doesn’t stop the adults from greeting you. Franci keeps trying to persuade me that it is not that bad and that our relatives kisses one on the mouth when greeting, but my standpoint is at least its only the relatives that do that, and not everybody.

 

Well we went back to our boat after that while the French people went to the restaurant.

That afternoon my Dad, Sophia and Marike swam over to their boat and socialised, because Mambala had to leave the next morning early to go to Martinique, since they wanted to spend Christmas there. (And seriously since they are French and Martinique is a French island it totally makes sense to me.) That was the Saturday, the 28th of November.

 

Tuesday we went on a island tour and it was really nice. We went to a rum factory and to a farm where they grow the cocoa beans which they send off to the place where they make the chocolate. At the end of the tour they gave us some chocolate to taste. (it wasn’t as nice as Cadbury but very nice.) I liked the 61% cocoa chocolate more than the 70% cocoa.

In front of the water wheel that still drives the factory.

In front of the water wheel that still drives the factory.

 

Well, when we came back from the tour, we climbed out of the car, paid the driver and everything and as we were walking next to the restaurant to our dingy, I saw five people sitting at the corner table. Two children and three adults. The memory of randomly meeting the French people there was still fresh in our minds, so we were kind of looking about.

 

I wondered if the people at the table were yachties and if they were, on what boat they lived? Where do they come from? How old are he kids? Can they speak English? This was going through my mind when the boy…. (I could see that one of the children was a boy, and the other one a girl, although I could only see her back, since she wasn’t facing the window, but the boy was facing the window.)…. craned his neck to get a better look at us. I had just decided that the kids were both younger than us when a surprised look came over the boys face and he said something to the rest of the people at the table. They all jumped up and came running out!

 

I was in front and kept on walking to the dingy. I put my backpack inside it and came walking back hesitantly. Turns out that they were the Yoshimas, who we met in Rio. The third adult was just a friend who was sailing with them for a short while.

The reason I didn’t recognise the boy, Juca, was because when we saw him in Rio he had recently had a hair cut with an electric razor so his hair was very short. But when I saw him then (in Grenada), his hair had grown. and he needs a hair cut once again.

 

Well their boat, AmarSemfim, was anchored in another bay called Secret harbour, and we were anchored in Prickly bay. The two harbours were quite far from each other, so we couldn’t just go over in our dingy. The only reason we stayed in Prickly bay was because my dad wanted to dive at Grenada and we weren’t allowed to dive without a group. Meaning that you had to pay for each dive. Which is what you usually have to do, but since we have our own kit, and my dad was a dive master when he was young we can dive on our own. But we weren’t allowed.

 

There was a dive shop place in Prickly bay – it was sort of part of this super fancy Hotel kind of place but we were allowed to dive with them. We ended up doing two “Lionfish-Hunt” dives (that cost us a fortune). We chose those because they would have hunted them anyway we just had the choice to try and kill the fish or not. You see the Lionfish is a pest here in the Caribbean where they eat the smaller reef fishes and have no natural predators. (On the coast of South Africa they are not pests at all. We have sharks and groupers that eat them and keep them in order.)

 

The dives were really nice, I didn’t catch any Lionfish but at least my sisters did so we had plenty of lunch. Sophia caught a bunch of small ones and Marike and Franci caught at least one big one each. (I only spotted about 2 in the first dive but a lot on the next dive).

 

Sophia holding one of the Lion fish that she skewered.

Sophia holding one of the Lion fish that she skewered.

After we did the dive, we moved Shang Du over to Hog Island. The bay is just next to Secret harbour and can easily be reached by dingy. It was a really tough ride to Hog Island – mainly because the wind was against us. We had to keep the engine running and we were making slow progress.

 

As usual I didn’t take any sea sick pills – I have a strong stomach and I don’t remember throwing up even once this year. Or to be exact since we started sailing. Although I’ve felt really feel ill. (Even though everybody tells me that it’s best to let it out, for some reason I’ll see it as a disgrace if I ever vomit because of sea sickness).

Well, to make matters worse I was reading (which never helps). I was also lying in the wrong direction. If the boat is rocking from side to side (Like a cradle) and you are lying in the cradle the way you should (parallel to the sides of the cradle), then your insides will only be going from your one side to your other side (from right to left). But if you lie in the wrong way, your insides will go to your head and then to your toes and back again, making you feel terrible. So I wasn’t feeling too good.

The first thing I did was go into Marike’s room and lie on her bed. This made me feel a whole lot better since my insides weren’t going haywire. After ten minutes the boat stopped tossing so badly and it was getting calmer. I ventured out into the cockpit, and found that we were going into the harbour. It was a lot more peaceful in there and I was glad to be there.

Hogs Island is quite a nice place. It doesn’t specifically have a marina so that meant the anchorage was free! (This is always good news to a yachties). Secret harbour was right next door and we weren’t too far away from our friends. We had some other friends anchored in Hogs Island, but unfortunately they didn’t have any kids. They were, however, South Africans. We met in Trinidad. Their boat name is ‘Out of Africa’, although their boat has been registered in England. The people living on board ‘Out of Africa’ (uncle John and Aunty Joanne) are both Christians as well and are very nice. Uncle John is a very social guy who I believe can get along with anybody. They have been to Grenada before and knew of a little church there. So we went to it. We invited the Yoshima’s along (The friend that was sailing with them had flown back to Brazil by now). It was quite a walk to the church but it was a nice one. We got there first and had to wait for everyone to come in before the sermon started. It was very interesting. At the church there were actually children but the older ones (that looked my age and older) all went to the corner of the church to practice singing “Mary did you know”. It sounded quite pretty. The younger kids (mostly boys) went outside to play soccer, Juca joined them while we listened to adult conversations. (I didn’t find the conversations very interesting). We were planning to go for a walk afterward at some dove sanctuary which wasn’t bad.

Walking to church with the John and the Yoshimas

Walking to church with Uncle John and the Yoshimas

 

A few days after ‘Out of Africa’ left (they wanted to spend Christmas in Martinique). It seemed as if everybody wanted to spend Christmas in Martinique. We also left to go to another anchorage in Grenada called St George. We left in the morning and the Yoshima’s followed late in the afternoon. The water was a lot cleaner than I expected it to be. And we could swim off the boat.

 

Sophia, Marike and I swimming next to the boat.

Sophia, Marike and  Marie swimming next to the boat.

 

We always anchored way at the back of all the boats so that if we drag we won’t go into any of them. At first the Yoshima’s anchored next to us, but they prefer to anchor closer to the shore. So they moved. We were quite content where we were so we didn’t move. We had a nice time there. We went to a ‘Fish Friday’ thing where they sold a lot of different types of seafood. They also had really strong Ginger beer and this Sorrel drink. I never tasted the Sorrel drink, but I absolutely loved the Ginger beer.

We also went diving at St. George which was fun because we could dive on our own. Uncle Ricardo came diving with us and it was really nice. His English may not be the best but he’s a really nice guy.

Uncle Ricardo took this photo of some of us in the Statue Park

Uncle Ricardo took this photo of some of us in the Statue Park

 

 

 

Trinidad Living -Part 2 – Food- by Karin (the Mom)

We spent a whopping 3 months in Trinidad!

This was NOT planned and didn’t fit our supposed schedule very well. However…. it did give us ample time to try out all the yummy foodstuffs available in Trinidad.

It was a very good thing that we left when we did, otherwise we might have been too heavy for even our 26 ton steel boat to carry us away, lol.

The Snow Cone was our very first introduction to Trinny food. During the VERY HOT Independence Day Celebrations, we saw people walking around with polystyrene cups overfilled with white stuff and a straw sticking out of it. The little carts on wheels advertised their wares as ‘Snow Cones’ so at least we knew the name of what they were eating. Frans and the girls went off to investigate while I found a shady tree and just sagged down.

The Snow Cone is made up of very finely crushed ice AND blue, red and pink syrup-flavouring AND condensed milk! The vendor fills the cup halfway with ice and then squirts in a generous dollop of condensed milk. He then proceeds to put more ice until it forms a sticking out ball on top and squirts on the syrup flavourings according to your taste. (Extra condensed milk may also be added at this point).

The straw they stick into the cone turns out to be the key to eating it. You can, of course, wait for the “drink” to start melting and suck it from the bottom, but the best way is to stick the straw into the ice concoction right to the bottom and then take out the straw and slurp it from the bottom. Very dignified indeed!

At that point I was still under the illusion that I would be able to watch my weight in Trinidad and I had a ‘snow cone’ with only ice and a straw. I still maintain that mine was the most refreshing and maybe I was right, for those were our last snow cones for the whole stay.

There were quit a few other things that we didn’t eat only once or twice – but MANY times. In fact, as many times as possible. Rotis, Doubles, Buss-up-Shot, Punch, Corn Soup, Fudge, Ice-cream.

The best Rotis were to be found right inside the boatyard. This is where the workers buy their lunch. It was very easy to know ‘where’ the Roti hut was, but it took us quite a while to figure out the ‘when‘. It never seemed to be open when we checked. One morning Karin J & Sophia found it open and rushed to tell us and then rushed back to order Rotis. They were then told to come back at lunchtime – Rotis are NOT on the menu for breakfast. Lunchtime the hut was closed. We decided that the roti hut was like one of those magic shops that actually open in more than one dimension. Same time, but different place. We were just lucky whenever we caught it in our dimension.

Anyway, it took some time to figure out that lunchtime in Trinidad started at 11:00 in the morning! Also, that we could put in an order in the morning and fetch it at lunchtime. By 12:00 they would always be sold out.

This was, in fact how we got to know the Buss-up-Shots. We sent Karin J and Sophia to go and buy some Rotis (this was before we realised that we could order). They came back to tell us that there were no Rotis left, but the lady said we could have something else. Marike went back with them and returned with two “mangled” Rotis and some vegetables in another polystyrene container. To Marike it sounded like left overs, but we tried it anyway. It was delicious!!!! Only afterwards did we read about the “Buss-up-shots”. They apply a specific technique to get the “mangled Roti” look. Two long knifes and a motion as if folding a shirt is done to the Roti dough. From there the name : Bust –up – shirt. Also available in Lamb, Goat, Beef or Chicken.

A Roti is a large, flat pancake folded around your choice of filling. If you do not specifically ask for ‘Chicken without bones’ (their concession to the uncultured tourist), you will have many small bones to negotiate while eating your Roti. They simply seem to chop up the chicken meat – bone and all! The lamb, goat and beef undergo the same treatment, but the pieces of bone are bigger and easier to miss. The lamb and goat tasted surprisingly similar and turned out to be family favourites. Some preferring lamb and some goat.

Oh yes, I nearly forgot. When ordering any food in Trinidad, be sure to clearly articulate the words “SLIGHT pepper”. You will then be able to eat your still quite spicy purchase. I personally know of only one non;-Triny who might, MIGHT, be able to enjoy the normal pepper ratio – and that is my brother-in-law Paul van Zyl : )

Now for the Punch. This has absolutely nothing to do with that alcoholic fruit drink that used to be served at parties during the eighties in large glass bowls.

This is a smoooothie. Made up of condensed milk, fruit of your choice, spices, extra sugar (yep, this is not a printing error),milk and ice.

Marike and Ouma Elsie enjoying Rotis with the Punch in the foreground.

Marike and Ouma Elsie enjoying Rotis with the Punch in the foreground.

Marike always chose the Soursop flavour. Soursop is a real bizarre name for a fruit – right? Yet really delicious and family of the Custard Apple.

Karin and Sophia played it safe with Banana, but Frans was willing to try a different one on the menu each time. He had a Seaweed-and-cherry Punch once, but drew the line at vegetables and didn’t have the guts to try the Beetroot smoothie.

I chose Banana too as they are naturally sweet and I left out the sugar and condensed milk. Franci chose the Carrot Punch as her very last choice. It was surprisingly good.

Punch was our treat when we went to the huge Fresh Produce Market on Saturday mornings. To reach the Punch stall we had to exit the Fruit-and-Vegetable section and brave our way through the smelly, bloody, Fish-and-Meat market. Here there were chopped up carcasses and horns, huge meat choppers and scary men slicing really big tuna into steaks.

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Doubles is a breakfast food, only available early in the mornings. It is a street food sold from little makeshift stalls. However, the stalls do seem to have permanent places. There was a Doubles stall right outside the Marina where Shang Du was kept.

As far as we can tell, Doubles are made up of two little pancakes with filling. The filling consists of a sweet Curry Humus and some chickpeas and of course, PEPPAH!! You DEFINITELY ask for SLIGHT peppah. The vendor nearly uses sleight of hand movements as he deftly takes a piece of wax paper and slides the two pancakes and different fillings on. The real treat comes when he quickly folds the paper and with a flourish twists the ends so that your double really resembles a huge candy, all rolled up with twisted ends.

Tastes way better than it looks.

Tastes way better than it looks.

We always ate our doubles in the saloon of our boat. At the table. With plates, knifes and forks. I have no idea how Trinnys manage to eat this soggy (but delicious) article while standing next to the stalls. The paper is so thin and end up sticking to your meal and the filling runs everywhere. It must take years of practise!

 

There is more than one way to eat corn in Trinidad. We tried the Roast Corn first. This was on a road trip to the Rio Seco Waterfall. Roast Corn is whole corn grilled over fire. It can be slightly burnt and a bit dry and chewy. I just remember being VERY hungry and that it tasted really good.

Frans buying Roasted Corn

Frans buying Roast Corn

They didn’t have enough of the Roast corn, so we bought some Boil Corn too (NOT boiled corn – that would be un-Trinny). Man!! Those were really, REALLY good! They were soft and spicy and we even chewed the cobs because they were so flavourful.

The Queen Park Savannah is a big field of grass in the middle of Port of Spain. On Weekend nights there is a special section dedicated to food stalls. It is possible to find everything and anything here, including Corn Soup.

Marike in the foreground with the Queen Park Savannah food stalls in the background.

Marike in the foreground with the Queen Park Savannah food stalls in the background.

Corn Soup always seems to be made in a HUGE pot (50 liters or more). The queue at the Corn Soup is always long and the soup simply delicious. Marike was the first one in our family to try it. It includes whole pieces of sliced corn on the cob and some dumplings made from flour.

Franci eating Corn Soup bought at the Savannah

Franci eating Corn Soup bought at the Savannah

Corn Soup is apparently the best thing to eat right after a night of binging on alcohol. We cannot vouch for this, but they definitely served Corn Soup at 9’o clock one morning at the Ozone Park as revellers were stumbling out to their cars. We know, because we had a loooooong time to watch everyone from our car as the traffic was held up for more than an hour. We did not make it to Church on time.

In Tobago, the dish to have according to the books, is Crab ‘n Dumplings. We never got to sample this while touring Tobago, but when we found it at the Savannah, Frans just had to order it. Fortunately for him, we went back to the boat to eat. I have NO idea how he would have managed this meal, standing next to a stall.

Frans with his Crab 'n Dumplings

Frans with his Crab ‘n Dumplings

 

Hamburgers bought at a street stall had a Trinny twist. You can ALWAYS have peppah, but there was also thinly grated carrot and cabbage as choice fillings. The patty is also very good and grilled over the fire.

 

There are only a few Shopping Malls in or near Port of Spain. In nearly all of them it is possible to find a Fudge counter. They sell the most delicious fudge and you pay by piece. Our hands down favourite was Coconut, but they also had Soursop and Amarillo and ……….. mmmm

 

We went to the famous Maracas beach one day. According to our travel guide THIS was the place to eat Bake ‘n Shark. So we obeyed.

Bake is like a big Vetkoek. The Shark part IS actual fried shark meat. But, like one guy said, it could have been a sock for all he knew. By the time you’ve piled on all hundred of the possible condiments, sauces and fillers – nobody tastes the shark anymore. It is a HUGE toebroodjie and one cannot eat anything else for a long time after.

 

Souse is one of the streetfoods of Trinidad that we just could not bring ourselves to try. It is made with pig trotters or chicken feet. The meat is boiled and served cold in a salty brine seasoned with lime, cucumber, pepper and onion slices. The thing is, we have no idea what it tastes like. It is the pail pig trotters or chicken feet overflowing the polystyrene cup that kept s us from wanting to indulge.

In the Massey Stores (supermarkets) they sell the best Peppermint-and-Chocolate ice-cream in tubs (about 5 liters). If ever in Trinidad, be sure to try this. We did. Over and over again.

They are also very well known for their home made ice-cream. During our trip to Tobago Island our tour guide took us to Mamas Ice-cream Parlour to buy the real stuff. Again, coconut and soursop were our favourites, but Frans also tried a little container of Guiness ice-cream. Yes, they actually had ice-cream that tasted like beer!!!

When you see blue ice-cream in South Africa, the ice-cream is sure to be Bubblegum flavoured. Fortunately for the girls, Lily (our American friend) came along on this trip and could tell us that this was anything but. The ice-cream was actually candy-floss flavoured and as the picture shows, a great hit.

Karin Joan and Franci

Karin Joan and Franci

When we list all the food we got to sample in Trinidad, we cannot but mention the meals we had with other people. During a lovely Zip-Line outing – organised by the Elliots – we had a really sumptuous Paella. They know just how to do the right amount of everything! Thank you Natasha 🙂 (Although I’m pretty sure that we had the “Slight” pepper version).

And if you are ever invited to the Knechtles’ home for a meal, DO accept. Heather is a five star cook and we loved every bite.

Just as I said before, for the sake of our weight, it was a VERY GOOD thing that we left Trinidad when we did.

 

 

Trinidad Living (Part 1) – by Karin (the Mom)

To our South African minds, just the name Trinidad sounded exotic. At last we were going to enter the Carribean – that elusive body of blue–blue waters that the Beach Boys sing about.

Well………..Trinidad is certainly exotic. Life here is different and beautiful. But, blue-blue water? Uh…….no.

The seawater here runs all the way from the Orinoco Delta in Venezuela and brings with it the green, brown water so typical on this side of the Island. The water is not always this colour. When it rains, the earth leaks into the sea and forms a wide band around the land that reminds of coffee with lots of milk.

Our very first impressions of the people of Trinidad were when we decided to try to join the Independence Day Celebrations in Port of Spain. There was going to be a big parade and it sounded interesting. We piled into a Maxi-Taxi (just like a minibus taxi at home) and the taxi driver deposited us “near” the parade. No matter how fast we tried to walk, or how many shortcuts we took, we never did catch up with the front part. We ended up seeing the back part THREE times which consisted of a display of all the different types of emergency vehicles in Trinidad.

The Trinidadians love loud noise and these vehicles were outdoing each other in broadcasting their alarms etc. as often and as loudly as possible. The highlight was when the Fire Engine lifted up its hose to the sky and a great body of water rained down on us. Refreshing J. It was a hot, hot, hot day.

Which brings me to our next observation. Although the weather was every bit as humid and sultry as in Brazil, Trinidadians wore more clothes. Once we noticed this, we actively sought for scantily clad women and I think in the whole crowd we might have seen two. Their tops were modest and very few wore shorts. If they did, it was the long type and certainly not the skimpy denim shorts we saw everywhere in Rio.

The language spoken in Trinidad is English. At first, all we could think was : “You’ve got to be kidding me!”. This was NOT English. We were prepared to believe that English was the OFFICIAL language, but that Trinny’s couldn’t speak it. It takes quite a while to recognise that they ARE, in fact, speaking English. Later, we found that if they were talking to you directly, it was possible to follow and that not all people speak with the same strong accent. One of the words they love to use, is “aks” instead of “ask”. You can aks anyone for anything. If we staid any longer than we did, I might have started to aks nicely too.

Trinidadians are very friendly and helpful. Frans has so often heard the words “Take your time”, that we have started to repeat it in our own conversations. They never get upset when you fumble your change or when you don’t know exactly what you want when you get to the front of the queue. “Take your time, man, take your time.’’ Even their traffic reflects this attitude. It is possible to cut into any line of traffic easily and all cars are very considerate of pedestrians crossing the road. The downsize is that they also stop easily in the middle of a traffic lane to drop people off or to pick up parcels or to just chat to someone walking past.

There is a one lane road leading into Chaguaramas which is where all the yacht activity is situated. On a certain stretch of this road they have boards that announce very clearly “No stopping for the next 5 km’s” This has always baffled us as there were so many cars pulled off onto the shoulder in that specific stretch. This was until we figured out that they must be referring to that Trinidadian custom of stopping in the middle of the traffic lane.

The Trinidadians might not get upset when you fumble your change, but they dislike the use of coins. They do not respect it as money and will let it drop into the street or at the tills in shops. My girls got into the ‘coin collecting’ mania even before leaving South Africa, competing to see who can spot the largest coin lying around. In Trinidad they hit the jackpot. There are coins everywhere!! They picked up the equivalent of 26 TT dollars (about R60.00) over our three months’ stay. They had no problem to exchange this at the bank, so it still remains a mystery that Trinny’s themselves would not collect the money.

Maybe they do not need the change as badly as in South Africa. The official unemployment rate in Trinidad is 3 % !!!! Everywhere we went they had posters up in front of businesses advertising that they were : “Hiring staff – apply within”. In South Africa they wouldn’t dare to put up a poster like this for fear of a stampede.

During our 3 month stay in Trinidad, we went to the movie theatre once. It was a real treat and the first time since leaving South Africa. They do things slightly differently here. When we entered the Cinema Building, they immediately showed us where we were obligated to leave our bags. This was not a security measure as we initially thought. Our bags were just placed onto an open rack behind the counter with a number attached to it. It would have been so easy for anyone to snatch something – but, nobody did.

The reason that they do the bag-taking is to prevent people from smuggling food into the cinema. It is not that they don’t like people eating while watching a movie, they just want you eating THEIR food. In the place of just the normal popcorn and sweets stall, there were about 3 different fast food outlets. You could choose a meal from any of them and they even provided you with a special tray to take it inside the theatre. The result is such, that in Trinidad, movie theatres are filled with the smell of French fries and burgers – not the usual popcorn fare :).

There was one more thing that would never work in South Africa. To the one side there was a stand that glowed with fluorescent lights and was made up of little compartments. On closer inspection it turned out to be a free “cellphone charger machine”. Each little compartment had a plugpoint and a see-through door that opened with a code. You inserted your phone and closed the door. Now you insert your own code to lock the door and only your code would unlock it again. (Marike reminded me that occupied boxes actually glowed red and turned green when the cellphone is charged). You were now free to enjoy your movie while your flat phone battery is being charged!

In the next instalment, we’ll share some more of our Trinidad experiences.

Birds, birds, birds : )

The one nice thing about writing a blog about a place after everyone else has already written about it, is that I can write what I like and you readers pretty much know what I’m going on about : )

 

As I have stated before, there are a lot of birds in Brazil. So much, in fact, that it is impossible for a guide book to be made which contains a sufficient amount of information and which doesn’t give you any back problems if you simply try to move it a bit. So there you have an immediate bird-identification problem. I overcame this problem by using the internet combined with the computers at the Iate Clube. I was generally able to get a photo of any new bird I saw, and was able to identify the bird off that.  Simply remembering what a bird looks like is a hopeless way of finding a bird. Just when you think that this time you saw and can remember all the traits that will separate it from all the other birds, you find that your options narrow down to three (and if you are very lucky) very similar looking birds. Often when I have photos I call Marike to help me identify the bird; I give her my two options and then she decides between them based on the information on the photos. She is more artistically inclined, so she often sees things that I miss.

So when we left Rio I had almost no way of identifying new birds species which I saw along the way. And at Paraty I saw a lot of birds, of which the Red-necked Tanager (Tangara cyanocephala), Plain Parakeet (Brotogenis tirica) and Long-tailed Tyrant (Colonia colonia) were my favorite. I just tried to take photos of all the new birds and hoped that somewhere along the line I would actually be able to identify them.  During the unexpected stop at Salvador I was able to identify most of the birds, but not all. and I had to do it on my phone; only time I every really whished my screen was bigger : l. But not having identified all the birds meant that the photos had to stay on my camera from where I could have easier access to them if I needed to look them up; plus I’m rather trigger happy when It comes to taking photos. . .so yeah, by the time we reached Trinidad I had a few thousand photos on my camera.

At French Guiana it was the same, except we couldn’t use the internet for anything except WhatsApp, since it was pretty expensive. And there were no bird books available. By this time I was getting a bit tired of all my untidy notes in my notebook where the bird names should have been (at each place we go I write down all the birds I see there). Luckily, there weren’t too many birds at French Guiana which I did not know.

When we reached Trinidad the problem arose that most bird books of the Caribbean do not include Trinidad & Tobago, as they have quite a number of species which do not occur on any of the other islands, because they are the only islands with rainforest. You would expect, though, that Trinidad itself would have the ‘special’ bird identification book freely available, but it doesn’t. The only place where such a book can be found is at the ASA Wright Nature Centre (incidentally also the only place you can get postcards). That’s one of the reasons ASA Wright was one of our first excursions, and it was AWESOME! There was a big porch with a small hummingbird garden outside it. They had several feeders all around the porch and in the garden, so close to the people that if you stuck out your hand you would actually be able to touch the hummingbird on the feeder! That is, you would’ve, assuming the hummingbird doesn’t fly away. . . The hummingbirds flit here and there between the feeders and the trees; sometimes a shortcut through the porch is taken and you can feel them zoom right over your head! I myself would never have been brave enough to try and identify all the birds I saw there, especially not the hummingbirds. But there was a guide sitting with us on the porch, Caleb Walker, and he was very nice. He answered all my questions and pointed out any new or interesting birds he saw. All the staff at ASA know what they are doing and is super friendly and helpful.

Armed with my newly acquired book and knowledge gained at ASA I was now able too take on Trinidad properly and catch up with some of the unknown birds of our previous countries. Trinidad is simply alive with birds. Where there are no buildings there is forest, and where there is forest the birds thrive. Black Vultures (Coragyps atratus) are as always to be seen in the air, along with one or two Turkey Vultures (Cathartes aura). Every evening at round about sunset at least one pair of macaws fly over Power Boats screaming joyfully to each other. When a larger group flies over you can more clearly see that they fly in pairs, never far from each other. At the pitch lake I wanted to look at the birds in the reeds and on the water that collected in the lake, as well as hear what the guide was saying. I didn’t manage it though and kept getting rather behind. There was an Osprey (Pandion haliaetus), a lot of terns and also Black Skimmers (Rynchops niger). The skimmers have long straight beaks, but the bottom half is longer than the top half, so they look as if they are constantly jutting forward their jaw. They fly with slow even beats of their wings and never seem to be in a hurry.

Caroni Swamp was lovely. We went once in the afternoon while Ouma was here, but then there weren’t quite as many Scarlet Ibis (Eudocimus ruber) coming in to roost as some of them were still nesting, but it was still lovely. We liked it so much we decided we would go again, but this time in the morning too see the Ibis take off. It required booking a boat especially just for us, and waking up at 3:30 A.M. We invited another South African sailor from Leila to come with us and we all thoroughly enjoyed it. The Ibis didn’t all quite take off at once, but the main body did and it was very beautiful. The swamp itself was cool and calm, us being the only boat out there. It was also low tide and as we waited for the Ibis to take off all around us in the water were ripples of where big fish were skimming the surface while feeding. Going back to the starting place through the swamp in the early morning light is amazing. The mangrove reflected on the water so well you could hardly tell where the trees ended and the water began. It felt like I was staring into a fairy world, and if I slipped into the water I could effortlessly float among the trees in the golden light.

O! And before I close off this blog, I have to tell about the Pelicans. The beautiful, clumsy Brown Pelicans (Pelecanus occidentalis) that can be found anywhere along the coast. They’re not really all that clumsy, they just look terribly clumsy and not quite in proportion. They are able to fly way too effortlessly than sound reasoning would allow, if you ask me, but the way they dive make up for it. When a Tern dives it’s quick, sleek and efficient, shooting into the water like a bullet. The Pelicans don’t fly quite so high, and when they dive they look like a bomber plane crashing into the earth, beak open wide, and  with a nice big splash! They also love sitting on the mooring poles at the jetties. Going to land on these poles is not just something a pelican does. For them it’s an art – an art which the older ones have mastered, and with which the younger ones have trouble. Even if they are sitting right next to the desired new perching place, they have to take off and make a wide circle before coming in for the landing; I’ve seen one not slowing down enough, so that he was on the pole, but its momentum kept it going forward, so that it had to swoop off and try again. Sometimes the Pelicans on the neighboring poles don’t feel too safe with the other one flying around so close to them, and just move over a few poles.

Meeting People – by Karin J

Hi again.

I have been notified that it is time for me to blog again. So here I am blogging.

I decided to blog about Trinidad – rather than go on from where I left off, which was Salvador, right?

Well, since then we stopped at French Guyana. It was a fascinating place and we stayed there for quite a while so that if I was to go on from there, you would probably not read about Trinidad before February 2016. One thing I will say, though, is that if you ever happen to be in French Guyana – go to their Zoo – it is marvellous!

Trinidad has lots of spicy food. If you buy any street food, you have to tell them : “slight pepper”, because otherwise you’ll never be able to finish whatever you’re eating because of the burn. (Trinnis call chilly “peppah”)

We found a very good church. It is called the Westside Community Church.

 

This is a Potluck-dinner at church and the youth are helping to dish up the desert. Marike is in the foreground and I am waving the lifter right at the back.

This is a Potluck-dinner at church and the youth are helping to dish up the desert. Marike is in the foreground and I am waving the cake-lifter right at the back.

 

There is an American family in the church with a difficult surname. We have become great friends with them. They are also a family of six – having four children too. The oldest is twelve and luckily she is a girl. Her name is Lily. Then it is her brothers, Matthew and Blake and their little sister Lucy. They are very nice and their house is like a weekend house to us now, because Lily invites us over for sleepovers all the time. I am definitely NOT complaining : ).

 

John and Heather Knechtle (My mom helped me with the spelling and they pronounce it Connectly)

John and Heather Knechtle (My mom helped me with the spelling and they pronounce it Connectly)

From left to right: Lily, Matthew, Blake, Marike, Sophia and myself.

From left to right: Lily, Matthew, Blake, Marike, Sophia and myself.

Lily all by herself.

Lily all by herself.

 

At the Power Boat Marina – where we are staying, there is also a Welsh guy. He is 16 and very tall and his name is Bryn. He owns a wakeboard and often invites us to go wakeboarding with him. My sisters love it, but I don’t.

Kieran (15), a South African guy, also lives on a boat at the marina. He has a knee-board. I haven’t tried it yet, but I don’t want to.

 

Bryn playing cards with us at the Cruisers' Barbecue.

Bryn playing cards with us at the Cruisers’ Barbecue.

We met a Dutch family through Bryn’s family. They stayed at the TTSA anchorage. They have three children: Marijn (17), Senne (15) and Marjolijn (14). We had loads of fun with them especially since the marina where they stayed has a pool. But they sailed on before us and are long gone by now.

 

From Left to Right: Blake, Marijn, Lucy, Senne, Sophia and Lily.

From Left to Right: Blake, Marijn, Lucy, Senne, Sophia and Lily.

At the church, there is another great family. The Elliots. The Mom and the Dad and the daughter Leah. They are Trinidadian and play the steel pan drums as a family. They have gone on quite a few mission outreaches as a family. They invited us to go zip-lining with them and we in turn, took them to see the Gaspary caves. The only one of their family that had visited the caves before was the Dad and that was 40 years ago!

The Elliots: Natasha, Leah and Stafford.

The Elliots: Natasha, Leah and Stafford.

 

There is one more family to mention. A South African couple from Cape Town. They own the boat ‘Out of Africa’. Uncle John and aunty Joanne also attend Westside Community Church when they are here. Uncle John does not speak Afrikaans entirely, but he mixes his languages anyway. =)

 

 

The Trinidad Zoo – by Sophia

It was Sunday and we said that we were going to the Zoo at three o’clock that afternoon.

At first I didn’t want to go because I was scared that the animals weren’t looked after, but when I thought about it and saw the Zoo I changed my mind and decided to be very excited. The Zoo was wonderful.

First we hurried to the albino tigers’ and the normal tigers’ cages, because it was feeding time for them. There was one normal tiger called Adventurous and in another cage was an albino tiger Mom with two albino cubs.

My Dad taking a video of the Tigers while they are eating. Karin J is also there

My Dad taking a video of the Tigers while they are eating. Marike is also there.

It was cool to see them get fed and funny, because they had to be put in a small cage – so the people could put the food in the large cage. In the small cage there was a little pond and one of the cubs jumped in. When the other cub came to drink water, he splashed him and even the Mom who definitely didn’t want to get wet, got splashed.

The lion’s cage was right opposite the tigers’ cage. The lioness was very close to the wall and she was so BIG! I have never been so close to a lion before. It was scary to imagine me with a lion that BIG so close to me in the wild ) :

 

When we moved on, we came to the giraffe cage. Here there were two young giraffe with a poster on their cage that said: “You can feed the giraffe at 4:00.” We decided to first buy some food for ourselves and see the aquarium.

There were not so many fish, but there were many new ones and it was interesting. It was also air-conditioned. There was a very interesting fish called a “Knife Clown”. It is shaped like a knife blade and has dots on its back that multiply when it gets older. It can grow to 3 feet and eats any type of fish.

The Knife-Clown fish.

The Knife-Clown Fish.

My Mom’s favourite fish was the fish that was right by the aircon. She liked to look at them with her back 😛

After the aquarium we looked at some pecuaries (little wild pigs) and a small type of cat and crab-racoons. There was a cage for a type of water animal with many ducks in as well. There was very dirty water in the cage. A sign explained that the water was filtered and cleaned daily, but it still looked very dirty to me. They are not winning the battle.

And then……… the boy lions ROARED!!!!!! My Dad wanted to see this and so did I. We went to the cage and saw them ROARRRRRR. We then went back to the giraffe cage to feed them.

When we got there, there were already a lot of people in front of the giraffe cage. There was also a zookeeper telling us about giraffes. How long do you think a giraffe needs to sleep in 24 hours? And don’t look it up on the internet!!

The two giraffe were brought over to Trinidad from New York when they were very small, so they are friendly and quite tame. The one giraffe will even stick out his tongue on demand. A Mom giraffe carries her baby for 14 months before it is born. He falls very far, but doesn’t get hurt. Within a few hours he is ready to run around with his mother.

We bought some special treats at the shop to feed the giraffe. The zookeeper said that they were pellets made from leaves. We each had a chance to feed one to the giraffe. The giraffe’s mouth is a lot more slimy than I thought. : (

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The lady pointed to the washrooms so that we could go and wash our hands. It was so nice and cool and the water was even cold. I wanted to stay in there for ever.

When we moved on we saw lots of beautiful birds and after the birds there were lots of types of monkeys. Howler monkeys, Capucins and even two Chimpanzee. One chimpanzee had a cup and pushed a button and water came out of a pipe into his cup. After he filled it, he drank from the cup.

And their were two UGLY looking Baboons so I decided I’d rather go and look at the cute Otters. They were playing in their waterfall and one slipped down a special slide in their cage. It was possible to see them underwater through another window, but we didn’t go there until later.

The Otter sliding down the slide.

The Otter sliding down the slide.

We moved onto the crocodile looking things. My Mom said that they were not crocodiles, so I have to use their proper name : Kaymans. Did they have long teeth? Yesss! Did they stay very still? Yesss! Did they look like little crocodiles? Yesss!! Were they crocodiles? Noooo! L (Because my Mom said so.)

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Well, after all that, there was an Ant-eater!! The people at the Zoo gave him a termite nest at feeding time. (Have I ever told you that there are a lot of termite nests so he has free food?!)J He is sooo cute and it was amazing to SEE an ACTIVE Ant-eater eating termites with his long tongue!!!

I am sorry that this photo of the anteater is so dark. We could see it much better.

I am sorry that this photo of the anteater is so dark. We could see it much better.

 

Karin J and I went ahead to the Reptile House.

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There were snakes and a Komodo dragon that was shedding its skin, revealing very bright colours underneath.

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There was also a HUGE albino snake and it looked as if it had eaten something big. This must be why you can’t teach a snake tricks. As soon as they are fed, they fall asleep.

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Now, the Zoo was busy closing and it was time to go home. I enjoyed the Zoo very much!!!

OKaaaay…… for those of you who were not disobedient and looked up on the internet…. A giraffe sleeps for the amazing total of ……. wait for it………20 minutes a day! : 0

 

Grandma’s Stay – by Marike

This blog is going to be a summary of our Grandmother’s stay with us on the boat. (So, basically a summary of all the sights we saw during her visit, with some photos.)

We were very chuffed that our grandmother was coming – hey, we get an aircon and a car! (We are still hiring the aircon even though she’s gone. It’s just waaaaay too hot without it!) We also moved from a swing mooring to dock A, which was a bit open to the bay, but at least meant that Ouma wouldn’t have to get into a rubber duck to get onto the boat. (Later we moved to a more sheltered dock – dock C – but that was only after she had arrived.)

The day we picked her up from the airport happened to be election day for T&T (Trinidad and Tobago). We thought we left ourselves lots of room, leaving an hour and three quarters early. Unfortunately, this was not the case. The GPS insisted on taking us on a lot of back roads. (With the best of intentions – the information it was working with said that the main road was going very slowly. Too bad the back roads weren’t any faster, even without the traffic!)

We arrived an hour after her plane was supposed to have landed. (Three hours in traffic.) We did this manoeuvre where we took the car round and dropped three of our number right outside the airport to go and find Ouma while the other lot went to go park the car. I was part of the ‘’go find Ouma’’ group, so off we sped and hurried as fast as possible toward foreign arrivals. We were so blessed, because our grandmother’s plane hadn’t landed yet! We actually had to wait 15 minutes before she came out!

When she did arrive, we all swamped her of course, and chatted all the way back to Chaguaramas. On arriving at the boat we unpacked all the stuff she brought over from SA for us. ^_^ Yay! Some proper chutney at last!

She had arrived on the Monday, and unfortunately there were people working on the boat that week, so we couldn’t go anywhere specific for a few days. It did give poor Ouma some time to try and get used to the tropical heat without any strenuous exercise.

On Thursday we went to the military museum that was like 5km down the road from Power Boats. (The marina where we are staying.) The most prominent thing about it – when you are approaching it – is the airplane. It stands above all the ground hugging buildings and the other military jeeps and stuff on display.

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There is also a restaurant there which is in much better condition than the museum itself. (My guess is that the museum can’t really support itself, and so the people are really depending on the restaurant.)

When we first went in it looked like we might be done in an hour or so, but the museum is much more extensive than we had guessed! The building hadn’t looked that big from outside, but whoever had set up the stuff in there had really done their job well. It was like a maze you walked through, and all the information was interesting. It’s actually very sad – it looks like a lot of money and effort went in to establish it, but there isn’t enough for the upkeep.

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In front of the museum

A replica of what a trench would have looked like

A replica of what a trench would have looked like

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It started with all the pirates of the Caribbean, working its way up until the Second World War. There was one story of a woman who had a whole pirate career in something like four years. Her name was Anne Bonny, and she had a few years of extremely intense pirating, and was then captured. She was due to be executed, but she was pregnant at the time, so they put it off. After that she basically disappeared. It was fascinating 😉

Die storie van Anne Bonney

The story of Anne Bonny (or rather, the beginning of it)

Having fun inside the airplane

Having fun inside the airplane

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That first week we didn’t do a lot during the week, but that Saturday we went to ASA Wright centre. That was one of the best trips we did! ^_^ It was soooo nice! We had to drive for quite a bit to get there – winding roads, and a lot of uphill.

The ASA Wright centre used to be a plantation. The last owner was a woman who had come from Europe, and who had decided to make the plantation into a wildlife reserve. The centre itself is only a small part, and I think the whole area is now a wildlife reserve. You can drive in up to a certain point, but there is a lot of the mountain you can’t reach with a car.

We arrived at about 10:30 and arranged for an 11 o’clock tour. They have a few rooms people can pay to stay in for a night or two, and these people are allowed to walk the trails alone, but they keep the general public out, so as to keep down the number of visitors. They have a cave there that is one of only a few places the Oil Bird nests They used to take down every tour they had, to go and see them, but then the birds left the cave. So now they have scaled down to two visits per week.

Our Guide

There was a little rain before we left, but it cleared up, and we headed out into the rainforest. It was beautiful! The guide showed us a few of the flowers and told us more about them, and I was fascinated by the leafcutter ants. They make a huge colony, but there isn’t a new queen when the old one dies. A queen will live on average about 15 years, making new kings and queens in her lifetime. These will then go out and make new colonies, but when she dies, the colony dies with her. Another random fact – if it starts to rain, they will drop whatever they were carrying and run for the colony. The colony we saw looked deserted, but she showed us that they were just still hiding after the rain. (We even saw a trail of the abandoned leaf clippings!)

Ouma posing with some vines

Ouma posing with some vines

 

We also saw a few birds, and the exoskeleton of a type of bug that only comes out every 17 years. There are different species – this type won’t come out all at once, but over the whole season. Next year though, you won’t find any!

When we reached the end of the tour, the rain really started pouring down. At first we thought it wouldn’t last that long, and just sort of started trudging back. At last we realised it was just going to keep on coming! So we started running for the shed some way up the path. By the time the grownups caught up to us, the rain started lighting up some. (Not soon enough for us though – we were soaked!) Once we reached the veranda it started raining again though.

We had a great time. We watched all the hummingbirds drink from the feeders, and all the other birds that were in the garden. (Hummingbirds are more active in cooler weather, so we actually saw a LOT!)

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Over-loaded feeder ;)

Over-loaded feeder 😉 These birds aren’t humming birds, so they can’t reach as far into the feeder, because their beaks are too short – result, they swamp the feeders just after they’ve been topped up!

 

 

 

We bought some coffee that was made from the plantation’s own coffee beans, which was delicious. I don’t usually drink coffee, but we were all cold, so it was nice. (The first time since arriving in the tropics that I was actually cold again!)

Huddled together to try keep a tiny bit warmer

Huddled together to try keep a tiny bit warmer

 

Buying some coffee

Buying some coffee

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was a tarantula that was walking about under the roof, and one of the guides caught it in a net and let it walk on his arms. He also allowed us to try – they weigh more than I expected, and yet they’re lighter than I expected. Don’t ask me why – I have no idea!

Mom, bravest of us all, was the first to volunteer!

Mom, bravest of us all, was the first to volunteer!

 

 

 

 

My face when the tarantula was on me.

My face when the tarantula was on me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dad next . . .

Dad next . . .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While we were driving back, we discovered that we couldn’t just leave. The rain had done some damming up, and so the road was under water. We had to wait about a half hour/hour before we could continue home. (Apparently this had been one of the worst rains they had had this season.)

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This was just part of the way back

 

 

Going to see what the fuss is about

Going to see what the fuss is about

 

 

 

 

 

Waiting around for the water level to recede sufficiently for us to advance

Waiting around for the water level to recede sufficiently for us to advance

Eventually the water went down enough so that we could pass, but since the car we had was a very low one, we weren’t taking chances.

 

Sunday was my Grandmother’s birthday, so we sang and did presents before going to church, (really nice church, by the way – we settled right in) and after church we were planning to go to the botanical gardens. That was a wonderful idea, but didn’t happen. -_- There is only one road out of Chaguaramas, and there was some parade filling up that street! (The parade had something to do with the new political party that had been elected.) The Plan had been to pack all the stuff we needed for a picnic (our Basic Picnic Kit) and then buy lunch on the way out of Chaguaramas. As this was not possible, we stopped at a Chinese takeout place, and got some Chinese food for lunch. ^_^

Sophia and I standing outside

Sophia and I standing outside

Waiting for our order to be filled

Waiting for our order to be filled

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since we couldn’t go to the botanical gardens, we went down tucker valley. There were some picnic tables under big trees there, so we had lunch there. (Yum!) Had an impromptu photo shoot too, so we have some nice ones of Ouma on her birthday. =)

 

 

Just as good as a botanical garden, ja?

Just as good as a botanical garden, ja?

Mother and son

Mother and son

On the golf course just outside the walk

On the golf course just outside the walk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Monday there was a specific job that needed doing, so we didn’t get out, but on Tuesday we ventured forth once more to go see another corner of Trinidad. There is a golf course in Chagauramas, and in this golf course there is a waterfall. Or rather, a few little waterfalls. We spent the late afternoon doing the 20 min walk to the waterfall, and suffering from mosquito attacks!

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Wednesday we went to go see the pitch lake. It is quite a long car ride to the south of Trinidad, and we spent two hours in the car before we reached it. It was a rainy day, and because it is summer (Trinidad’s wet season) we had to walk around the water which had dammed up, becoming too deep to cross.

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Not lilies 😉 , but a beautiful little flower nonetheless.

There are lilies growing in the water, and quite a few birds in the area. (We learned a little about cashew nut trees as well – apparently the nut has a layer of oil on it that will cause blisters to form on your hands and your mouth, if not washed off. )

The whole place has a peculiar smell – almost like a petrol station. It feels like there shouldn’t be such chemical stuff lying around naturally! 😉 The lake itself is hard, but has patches here and there (most on one side) that are more liquid. They used to mine it, but at the moment they aren’t because of a strike.

It was soft right at that point

It was soft right at that point

 

They also need to pump the water out during the wet season, otherwise the dip fills with water. (The level of the pitch lake is much lower than the surrounding countryside, since a lot of mining has obviously already taken place.

Hehe, we kept on wanting to call it a tar pit 😉

A specifically liquid point of the lake

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A tree they had found in the lake. They still needed to do carbon dating to find out how old it is.

A tree they had found in the lake. They still needed to do carbon dating to find out how old it is.

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The same day (on the way back from the pitch lake) we went to go see the temple in the sea. It was built originally by a man who came from India as a laborer. He didn’t make a lot of money, but each year he scraped together enough to buy passage back to India so he could worship at a specific temple there. But one year he couldn’t manage it, so he decided to build his own temple in Trinidad. He used to haul supplies with a truck, and when that broke he used a bicycle. He used it for a while, and planted the most beautiful flowers there. A lot of the people liked it. –Except the water company on whose ground he had built it. I can’t remember if they told him before to get off the land, or if they only told him after he had already built the temple, but he refused anyway. So they smashed the temple.

 

 

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The route to the temple is lined with some flowers and benches.

He then began all over again, building a temple at the same place, but out to sea, far enough so that they couldn’t complain that he was building on their land. I think this temple eventually also was destroyed, by the sea, I think. But then the community decided to build this temple to remember him by? Maybe just because he was so determined.

Beautiful garden

Beautiful garden

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thursday we went to Maracas beach! It’s the place where you eat bake’n’shark. =)

The road there is renowned as the most difficult, winding, twisting, narrow road in Trinidad. One of our youth leaders said her dad had made her do the drive to Maracas just after she had got her license, and after that she was paranoid of driving till after university. 😉

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Picking toppings for our bake’n’shark

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The bake’n’shark is like a big vetkoek that has a piece of shark on it. They give it to you just like that, and then you get to put on what toppings and sauces you like – for example, they’d have tomato, raw cabbage strips, carrots and more. For sauces they have a big variety, and one of the favorites is lots of hot sauce!

(They eat everything in Trinidad hot, completely opposite from Brazil!)

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The sea was nice, we enjoyed the swim a lot – not overly spectacular, but very nice.

After swimming, we went driving up the road a bit before heading back. ( I can’t remember finding anything in particular.)

 

 

There was a specific stand on the road to Maracas which was at an awesome lookout point. We bought some Trinidadian goodies for the trip. (Very sugary!)

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One side . . .

 

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The other side (behind the stand.)

She says she has the best office window view ever ;)

She says she has the best office window view ever 😉

 

That night we also went to the cruisers potluck. It’s held every Thursday night, and the exact equivalent of a bring-and-braai. (Normal potlucks don’t include the ‘grill’, but this one does.) We do it every Thursday night, and it’s a great way to get to know more of the cruisers.

 

Gaspary Caves . . .

I don't really have photos of outside the caves - but inside was AMAZING! Loved it ^_^

I don’t really have photos of outside the caves – but inside was AMAZING! Loved it ^_^

Friday we went to Gaspary caves. They are on Gaspary Island, which is a tiny little island in the middle of the harbour. We rode our dingys over, and at first had a little trouble finding the caves! We were lucky enough to talk to someone who could ring up the guide and get us on the tour (the one and only) for that day. (My dad had tried calling the guide several times during the week. No success.)

Anyway, off we sped around the island to the correct location. We tied up the dingys and walked up the cement path that winds around privately owned properties all the way to the caves. The group we were to go with was already there (the guy who called for us had basically just caught them before they went into the caves). They were quite a rowdy group, but we enjoyed the caves despite them – it was just to amazingly beautifully wonderful! I think this is my favourite spot in Trinidad.

Us swimming in the pool - water is crystal clear

Us swimming in the pool – water is crystal clear

 

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The large sinkhole

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are two or three sinkholes that let in light to the cave, and underneath the biggest one is the saltwater pool that is in the cave. The water is crystal clear, because it comes from very deep, and the water isn’t stagnant, since the tide makes the water level fall and rise every day. We were allowed to swim in it, and my dad was very sorry he hadn’t brought his snorkel and the underwater camera. (We did go back to the cave once when my grandmother was already gone, so he did get his chance.)

The large sinkhole from outside

The large sinkhole from outside

There was one formation I especially liked – when you shone a torch on it, it looked as if it was covered in diamonds. *_* Loved it 😉 Unfortunately cave photos are never as spectacular as the real deal. Ever. The cave was truly magnificent, and one of the places that strengthens my conviction that you can’t capture moments effectively with camera. It’s just not the same.

 

Saturday we went to the market first thing. It was all the grownups, Franci and I that went. (Karin and Sophia were sleeping over at the Knechtle’s house – they are an American family we met at the church). It was interesting, and strange. I guess all markets have their own style of strangeness.

Pig Tails - one of the things we found especially strange

Pig Tails – one of the things we found especially strange

 

 

 

 

 

Later that day we picked up Karin and Sophia and headed over to Caroni swamp – the place where you can see the red ibises. It wasn’t the right season, as most of the ibises were still at the breeding site, but some of them had started returning to the main sleeping area. They are a beautiful red colour, and our boat ride was a lot of fun. =) The guide was very knowledgeable. (He had apparently been doing this since he was too small to handle the boat on his own! They always sent him with someone who could handle the boat while he did the tour.)

Here you can see some of the ''red flowers'' that are actually ibeses

Here you can see some of the ”red flowers” that are actually ibises

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On the boat making our way through the swamp

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Sophia looking at the birds through Franci's binoculars

Sophia looking at the birds through Franci’s binoculars

Ibises in the background

Ibises in the background – not many of them, but there.

 

Sunday was my dad’s birthday, (which meant an Yskastert of course – Fridge tart) and Monday we used to catch up on abstract stuff, also to make ready for the next day.

DSC_0004[1]The next day we went on our Tobago tour! ^_^ We had to get up really early, load everything into the car, and drive to the ferry terminal. Then we had to check in and wait around for a really long time before we were loaded into the ferry. (We had to drive the car into the ferry, which was rather cool.) The ferry is BIG. When we were sailing into Trinidad with Shang Du I saw these ferries go by, and when I saw it for the first time I thought there were some strange clouds on the horizon – turns out they weren’t clouds! It was the ferry’s wake!

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We enjoyed the ride over, (I think mostly because there was a movie playing – Avengers 2 😉 but also because it was just new and exciting (We were much more blasé on the way back ^_^ ).

When we arrived we were met by our tour guide, and drove over first thing to the apartments we would be staying in for the time we were there. We left all our stuff there, and piled into his maxi van. We had a great tour, both that day and the next. He showed us a lot of things, and it was a great way to experience Tobago with Ouma. (By the way – you pronounce Tobago ‘To-bay-go’)

The van we rode around in

The van we rode around in

We went swimming at a waterfall, snorkelled some at little Tobago, had a much nicer snorkel at Charlottesville, enjoyed some nice T&T food at restaurants with beautiful views. We also had some yummy mangoes. (I have ascertained that I don’t like Julie mangoes, but I do like little green mangoes. Don’t know what they’re called though. )

We went to little Tobago in a glass-bottom boat, had a mini tour there, went snorkeling in two different locations. (Charlottesville, the second location, was the best one. The water wasn’t clear enough at little Tobago.)

 

First stop we saw some caiman - they were in the river flowing through an estate!

First stop we saw some caiman – they were in the river flowing through an estate! There were signs up everywhere that you had to be aware they are there. Not very big though.

A rubber tree - you can see the scars on the tree where previous cuts had been made

A rubber tree – you can see the scars on the tree where previous cuts had been made

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was a rubber tree he showed us – you can see all the cuts in the bark where previous people have already cut the tree to see it.

The view over the Caribbean side of the island

The view over the Caribbean side of the island

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(Right) The guide stopped randomly at the side of the road, and asked if this was a sheep or a goat. We all answered ‘goat’, but he then informed us that it was indeed a sheep – sheep don’t survive here if they have long wool, so they look more like this.

 

 

A waterfall we visited

A waterfall we visited

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Our visit to little Tobago included seeing tree-climbing land hermit crabs! 😉 (The guide told us he’d never before actually seen one climbing a tree, so that was new.) Those are about as big as your hand, by the way . . .

Guide showing us the home of a trapdoor spider on little Tobago

Guide showing us the home of a trapdoor spider on little Tobago

 

 

Sophia loved these – they are spiders that dig into the mud bank, and then make a little door for themselves. There are sticks at the entrance of the ”cave” that help the spider detect if an insect is walking by. The spider then comes out and attacks! Here the guide was dragging a miniature twig over those little twigs to trick the spider into making an appearance. (It worked)

 

The view on little Tobago from a high point on the island.

The view on little Tobago from a high point on the island.

Our glass boat expedition

Our glass bottom boat expedition

While we were snorkeling at little Tobago . . .

While we were snorkeling at little Tobago . . .

 

The snorkeling wasn’t great, since the visibility was low, but it was still cool =)

A Julie mango - I'm not so fond of those, but I helped picked them.

A Julie mango – I’m not so fond of those, but I helped picked them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The place where we got the mangoes was the guides grandmothers house. It had been ruined by a mudslide, but the tree was still good. ;)

The place where we got the mangoes was the guides grandmothers house. It had been ruined by a mudslide, but the tree was still good. 😉

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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We enjoyed our time in little Tobago a lot. =)

 

Ouma flew back to South Africa on Saterday evening. We had a great time while she was here! =) Mis jou Ouma! ;*

 

 

Pirates of the Carribean – by Karin (the Mom)

Well, maybe Pirates of the Carribean is stretching it a bit.

We weren’t in the Carribean yet……. And we still do not know whether they were real pirates………..

I’ll tell our story anyway.

Our journey from French Guyana to Trinidad was a real pleasure. The current and the wind worked together amazingly and we managed to cover the distance in only seven days. I know, because I had exactly 6 of the lovely, huge, pink grapefruit that they sell in French Guyana – and we had one each day for breakfast.

Anyway, on the second last day, coming closer to land than before, we started encountering some oil rigs.

This was the time that Frans would usually retire to bed, while we start up the watches. He stayed a little longer, as he was uneasy about all the activity around.

After some time, we received a call on the radio. It was a nearby oil rig that wanted information on our status. It wanted to know specifically whether we were on course or not. We assured them that we were fine. It must have been the AIS system in their control room that had them worried. The signal always sends out a course of steering, but a yacht steers all over the place – due to the waves – yet ultimately moves in a certain direction. They were worried that if we were in trouble, we could possibly collide with them.

It was properly dark by this time and the moon was not yet up.

About 15 minutes later, we  heard the  sound of an outboard motor. It was a long, narrow-looking boat and it pulled alongside Shang Du. Frans called out to them, asking them whether he could help them. We also shone our torchlight on them and it seemed to me that there were two or more people aboard. They shouted something, but no real communication took place. Then, they just left.

Frans and I speculated whether these men belonged to the oil rig and were sent to investigate us, maybe before the rig managed to hail us on the radio.

Frans was not happy at all. Up until this point I did not suspect them to be pirates, but I guess if you are the only guy on board, it is your job to be suspicious.

He immediately called up all the girls and told us to sit in the cockpit where we would be very visible. We were not to open our mouths to give away the fact that we were female. We were there to make the numbers on our boat look more. We talked extensively on what we would do if someone were to board our boat. Scary stuff!

The sound of the outboard engine came closer once again. The same boat pulled up alongside. Again, we shone the torch and attempted communication (Frans only). This time, they said nothing and just moved off.

Phew! A great relief and an answer to prayer.

The moon came up and for the rest of the night…………..nothing.

We still do not know whether thy were a real threat and maybe our numbers and our being alert scared them off……. or whether they were harmless from the word go.

We do know that we are in God’s hands ad that is the safest place to be – whether in South Africa or on the high seas.