Shang Du and the Yacht Basin – by Franci

If asked what the average day for us is like, there really isn’t just one answer. The ‘average day’ changes for each different location. At the islands the ‘average day’ usually involves a scuba dive, or a snorkel at the least. Sailing (for me) usually involves putting out the fishing line and –if the weather allows- spending time on the bowsprit seat.

Because there is so much to see in New York, the ‘average day’ involved an outing and an activity : ). Unfortunately, this also meant a very long dingy ride to and from the boat. We were anchored in the Hudson river, at least a mile away from the marina because we weren’t allowed to anchor in the middle of their mooring field. So even though we were technically anchored at 79st Marina, out boat actually lay alongside 96st ;P.

The dingy rides were tricky because both the wind and the tidal currents of the river had to be taken into account. When the current and wind were in our favour, we sometimes even managed to overtake the bikers riding along the riverside path. Although, I think that happened only once. The worst case scenario (and we had this once or twice), was when it was freezing cold and even though the current was for us, the wind was blowing strongly against us. The current and wind fought each other creating big waves and in our over-loaded dingy, we got soaked. This scenario actually went a lot better when the wind was in our favour, not the current, because then the wind blew all the splashing water away from us instead of toward us.

Sophia pumping up JJ before we lower him into the water.

The path going right round the edge of Manhattan provided us with distraction on these long dingy rides. Especially if the current was against us, because then we went right next to the side where the current is weakest. The path always has some joggers and bikers going along and it was fun to wave and smile at them and to see who waved and smiled back. It was also very satisfying to occasionally overtake a jogger while puttering along, be it ever so slowly ; ).

Because of the strong current and the unsettled nature of the water we always hoisted up the dingy onto Shang Du first thing after arriving back at the boat. It always surprised me after climbing from the rolling dingy onto Shang Du to feel how steady she is, almost rock solid.

 

Of course, we didn’t spend our entire six weeks in New York sightseeing and commuting on the dingy. We tried taking a few days off each week for my Dad to work and for us to do some school or catch up on some other tasks (like blogging), or doing laundry at the marina. They have one big washing machine and one big dryer, free of charge. Since we then had large, bulky, winter clothes, it was very nice not to have to wash by hand! The machines did take about a whole hour to complete a cycle. Sometimes one of the machines were a tiny bit faulty and you had to put them in for even longer. So when taking washing you knew you were going to sit there for a while.

One particular cold ‘stay at home day’, Marike, Karin and I took our laundry to the marina and each had a shower and did school while we waited. We all ended up squeezing into the room with the washer and drier because it was just soooo much nicer than sitting on the bench outside! We had the heater in the shower next door on as well, which really helped. What didn’t help was the fact that the one jacket I had brought was in the wash and the other had been forgotten in the cockpit. Karin was the only one actually wearing a jean, Marike and I were in shorts, as our jeans were in the wash. So I guess we were just asking to be cold ; P.

Around the little marina there were always Ducks and House Sparrows. These provided us (okay, probably mostly me), with snatches of entertainment while others were tying up the dingy or checking for packages at the marina. All of the Ducks, except three, were Mallards. Of these, one was white with bare red skin on his face; another, a soft brown female with a twinkle in her eye and a soft, downy appearance; and sometimes a darker female as well. After naming the white duck a few times and then forgetting what we called him, we settled on Harold; the sparkly-eyed brown duck is Gloria and the other one Denise. I find it interesting that out of all the ducks, Harold and Gloria are the only ones who actually sit on top of the boats in the marina.

Pretty sure this one is Gloria 😉

From where Shang Du was anchored we had a beautiful view of the Riverside Park next to us. We had the privilege of watching the sky catch fire as the sun slipped in behind the buildings for the night. Over our six week stay we saw all the trees on the bank go from green to golden. I think of anyone living in New York, we had one of the very best views :D. Not the easiest accommodations (thanks to the dingy ride), but one of the best views 🙂 .

 

 

New York – by Marike

Yellow. Grey. Glass windows. Leaves. Wind. Stone. Scarves. Lights.

These are the things that come to mind when I think of New York.

I also think of cold splashing water, pumping up our dilapidated dinghy (JJ), and the grey Hudson river.

Shang Du was anchored more than a mile upriver of the 79th street yacht basin. We were too heavy for any of their buoys, which was a real pity. You pay more per week anchored out than you would to be tied up to a mooring buoy. Added to that is the fact that you have to anchor beyond the mooring field. (Hence the 12minute dingy ride every time we needed to go ashore!)

By the end of our New York stay, we were leaving in a hurry. With winter just around the corner, the weather was turning a bit windy and frosty. We had a difficult time getting ashore with our injured dinghy. It kept on deflating after having sustained injury one fateful night. . . . more on that later.

It was freezing cold toward the end. We didn’t have enough layers to put on to keep the cold out!

This was all around November. Beginning of October, which was when we arrived, looks a lot different.

*          *          *

A whole book could be written on our New York stay alone, I shouldn’t wonder. We stayed long enough to justify a story – a whole 6 weeks! But I don’t have the time to write a story, nor do I have the skill. I’m just going to try give the impression New York left on me through a few memory pictures . . .

 

Close your eyes, and open them.

You are now on Shang Du.

We have been on the sea for more than a week now, and land is in sight at last. All the names familiar to me from a Billy Joel song have attached themselves to swathes of land. Nantucket. Long Island. Block Island. Montauk. Gardener’s bay.

The East coast of America used to be very hazy, but now the map in my head is slightly sharper around the New York area.

We have spent some hours of the night anchored, because we didn’t want to arrive in the dark. Now the anchor is back on board and we are moving through the mist. Land all around us, but somewhat unreal with the mist crawling about.

It’s my turn to take over the steering wheel. As we move through the various canals I get the strange feeling that we are travelling on a road with Shang Du.

From where I sit in the cockpit of the boat, glimpsing the first skyscrapers on the horizon, I can’t see what there is to be excited about. New York is just another city, after all!

Slowly, slowly, we motor closer and closer to the canal that connects Long Island Bay with the body of water next to Manhattan. (On the opposite side, not the Hudson river.)

As we pass under our first bridge, I feel an unexpected burst of energy. For some reason it has just clicked – we’re almost in New York!

 

 

First impressions of New York – by the Mom

It was rainy. And windy. Wet. Cold. Not comfortable in the cockpit at all. We couldn’t keep the wind and rain out with the usual flaps – all of them had to be folded away as it was too dangerous to impede the view.

Even though it was so uncomfortable up top, I couldn’t stay away. New York was too fascinating. So many high rises. Beautiful bridges. Metal latticework up concrete bastions, keeping the arteries of NY flowing. One bridge split in the normal way to let us through. Another actually allowed the whole middle span to ride up two symmetrical escalators at the ends. So surprisingly ingenious!

The high-rises all compete with one another to be unique, different. One remarkable building has twin towers of which the one twin slants in to connect with the other midway, then angles out to the sky again. . . . ? Doesn’t look safe, that one.

Oh there it is! The Statue of Liberty. Way small in the distance.

Determined to get up real close, we nearly wrote off the boat as we crossed the heavy traffic lane. Every Tom Dick and Harry seems to operate a ferry that visits this all important statue. They just happened to be faster and bigger and more dangerous than little Shang Du.

The photos speak for themselves. We now have proof. We did it. We actually sailed into the . . . most filmed city in the world!

New York, New York, here we come!

Lunenburg – by Franci

The crossing from Cape Bretton to Lunenburg was not a nice one. It was only for about four days, but having the wind right against us made it very uncomfortable. The Bradore Lakes in Cape Bretton had been so flat it was almost like sailing on land, so we had to get used to the rolliness of the sea all over again, even if the waves weren’t so big. Another factor is that we *cough* got out of the habit of taking sea sick pills before departing *cough*. When we left Lunenburg we were all wiser and took pills before actually feeling sick. Except Karin, she’s the only one of us that never drinks a pill and still does OK.

 

Anyway, Lunenburg. It’s a small fishing town with quite a lot of sailing boats moored in the small bay. There was a time when that little bay was filled to the brim with big wooden fishing schooners and the town was that of a big, vibrant fishing community.

The town is very quiet now, the main fishing industry having moved elsewhere, but many of the people still find their employment in the scallop fishing industry. The houses are mostly old wooden ones painted in very bright colours, the favourite being red. Usually the window panes are painted a different colour from the rest of the house and the colours don’t necessarily fit together either.

Along the shore there are quite a few single jetties for big yachts or super yachts. There are two old schooners fully rigged in the old way. Also, a biggish metal fishing boat tied up a little further along the shore. We had the opportunity to tour one of the schooners and the metal boat because they are old fishing boats belonging to the museum (I’ll explain later), and they were quite cool.

Of the very short time we were in Lunenburg we spent two whole days in the Fisheries of the Atlantic museum. Just because it was such an awesome museum with so much to tell. The first day we looked through as much of the museum as time allowed us and attended the talks and demonstrations. For example, a launching of a model boat to show the typical way the old fishermen of Lunenburg did it. The four of us got to help by hitting away little blocks of wood that held the model in place, using tiny hammers : ). The next day we literally spent the whole time in the museum’s mini theatre. We watched all the extra clips they showed about all the different subjects of the museum. We only went out once for a snack and to hear the talk about scallops that we had missed the previous day.

 

The people of Lunenburg originally came from other countries and knew nothing of fishing and boat building. But for survival they needed to learn, and learn they did. Long before the age of big steel boats and engines, the men went out on their wooden schooners to fish cod. These fish used to be very plentiful in the area, having an average size of half a man. Despite the dangerous seas, many fishermen were joined by their sons, often from the age of eleven.

There is a large area close to Lunenburg and Newfoundland where the seabed rises and falls, to create great canyons. These cause irregularly large waves during storms. While traveling over the area ourselves with almost no wind, we still saw some really weird wave patterns as the bottom became shallow – 10 meters – and then dropped down again. This area was the most excellent for cod fishing, but could also, for obvious reasons, be deadly. One island in particular close to the canyons, Cape Sable Island, has claimed the lives of many, many ships and their crew.

 

The method used for catching cod is called Dory Fishing. They would leave in their wooden schooners with 12 dories on deck. These little row/sailing boats were stacked 6 high on either side of the aft mast. The boat sailed a distance of a day or two to the chosen fishing spot. Coming back could take double the time going out, if the wind was contrary. The schooner then put out a special sea anchor and all the dories were launched with a crew of 2 each. The dories try to keep in sight of the ship, but can go really far away. While one man rows, the other puts out a very long line full of hooks – up to a thousand. The line sinks down and as soon as they come to the end of it , they haul it all back up again, expertly flipping the caught cod off the hook into the dory. Cod is a deep sea fish and the sudden difference in pressure render them completely struggleless (yes, I know that’s not actually a word ; p). The catch then needs to be rowed all the way back to the schooner, hoisted onto the deck, cleaned, salted and packed away – and all before breakfast!

The fish that they caught were usually salted: a layer of fish, a layer of salt, a layer of fish, and so forth. The fish being salted as they were packed in the hull meant the crew could keep on fishing either till their hull was full or their stores ran out, which made an average of about 2 weeks. The wives and families back home didn’t and couldn’t know anything about their loved ones’ safety until they got back home. Storms, fogs, currents, these were all things that could make dories and even whole schooners disappear.

The fishermen could also put the fish in ice: a layer of fish, a layer of ice (all harvested by themselves during the winter from the lakes). But that meant they had to return sooner to ensure the freshness of the fish.

 

Later came engines and radios, which helped to improve the tension levels on land. But it also meant the fishermen could now go fishing in the freezing winter, which they did.

In those days they didn’t understand or think of the fish as a limited resource, so they just went out and fished and fished. To them, time was money. Only recently did the fishermen start receiving salaries. Before that, they only got a portion of what they caught and everyone helped, even the engineer if he had any time to spare.

 

One of the boats we toured was an old dory fishing schooner. We had a good look around at how everything used to work. There was a person on deck that could tell us stories and answer all our questions about the design of the schooner and her previous life as a dory fisher. It was really cool.

We also got to see a more recent, yet still out-dated, steel fishing motorboat that also belongs to the museum. The Cape Sable has a huge net which was lowered on one side (always the same side) and pulled up by winches. But like the old schooners, the fish was still packed in ice.

Here also, there was a man on deck explaining and telling things. He himself had worked on boats similar to the Cape Sable and on the more modern boats. So he had a lot of first hand stories of his fishing experiences and the dangerous moments out on the water. Also the kind of conditions to be expected for the workers on both the older and modern boats.

 

These days the fishing industry from Lunenburg is small and mostly involves ‘scalloping’ (fishing for scallops). We saw the kind of flat nets used for trawling and had a chance to taste raw scallop.

We also held scallops that were in the museums’ touch tank. A scallop is a type of round shellfish, sort of like a small clam, but without the frills. Their eyes are the little black dots scattered all along the inside edges of the meat just where the shell opens. If they feel threatened, they swim away by pushing or pumping seawater with their shell, moving in fast bursts. But they move forward, not backward as we had been expecting. We all kept on being startled when we were holding a scallop and then suddenly felt the water push against our palms as it jetted itself away ; D.

 

We also learnt a lot about lobsters as that is quite a big industry in Lunenburg and actually in Cape Breton as well. The lobster market is highly regulated, with expensive permits and different lobster seasons in different areas, to make sure there will always be lobster available. Quite often, as we were driving in Cape Breton we would go past a yard with all these stacks of lobster traps just waiting for the season to open again. I never before realized what a serious predator the lobster is, but after seeing a video clip of a lobster carrying away a hermit crab, I suddenly realized how big and scary they are to their prey. Unknown to the lobster, the hermit crab pulled the safety chute and abandoned it’s old shell in the lobster’s claw, finding itself a new shell among the rocks where it had landed.

A really REALLY big lobster!

 

The ship that is Lunenburg’s pride and glory is the Bluenose. It all started in 1920 when the fishing community of Lunenburg decided that they wanted to have a race of working sail boats. They challenged America’s fastest working sailboat. The Americans accepted and elimination races were held in both Canada and America, leaving only the fastest fishing vessel of each country to compete. The people of Lunenburg freely put up the cup and the prize money, of some four thousand dollars, but what they hadn’t been expecting was to lose. The loss of the race, and of all that money, left the people of Lunenberg feeling very sore. Experts were called in to design a ship which could beat the Americans. Great haste was employed to have the Bluenose built before the end of Winter, so that she could still put in a full season’s fishing and thus qualify as a ‘working boat’ for the race. No power tools in those days, remember, and every steel fitting was made by the town blacksmith. All the schooners’ sails had to be cut on the ice of the frozen bay during winter, because that was the most open space. The sail lofts of today can be quite awesome places, just because of the massive floor space needed to actually stretch out some of the sails.

 

The Bluenose was finished in time. Captained by Angus Walters, she won the next working boat race. And the race after that. And the race after that one too. The Americans kept trying to build their own ships to beat the Bluenose, but they never could. The Bluenose became a national icon, her image even making it onto all the Canadian 10c coins; and she’s still there – if you have such a coin you can go and look : ).

She was a beautiful schooner and worked hard each fishing season to earn her keep. But during World War 2, Angus Walter, the then owner, was unable to keep her any longer and had to sell her to the war effort. They used her as a carrier ship in the Caribbean until 1946 when she hit a reef and sank. Angus deeply mourned the loss of his ship. Years later, when he was past eighty, Angus had the chance to be part of the official ceremony that started the work on the replica of this national icon, to be realised in Bluenose II, complete with rigging and blacksmith made blocks and spars.

And there you have it. In a very long blog (all summed up, by the way), what we did with and learnt in our time at Lunenberg : ). Both of the days on which we visited the museum, we were the last to leave with the staff closing up behind us.

 

Looking back over everything we’ve seen, learnt and done over the last two years, it is sometimes quite funny to think that nearly everyone I know have not done or learnt the same things we have. When starting to travel I hadn’t thought that traveling could really ‘broaden the mind’ as they tell you in books, but it does. God has really opened my eyes to new cultures and different peoples, and has constantly pushed me over my comfort zone to teach me so much more about Him! I try telling everyone I meet, that, although this trip has been amazing and we’ve seen and learnt so many things, it is because of God’s work in my heart and in us as a family that I would never swop it. He has taught us a lot about Him and again and again calls us to depend on Him. I am grateful to say that He is humbling me and teaching me to love others in a way that I by myself never could. Every time I miss our friends back home, or we have to leave a new group of friends behind and I feel extra dispirited and sad, I remember that He is always with us and that He is in control, nothing He does is a mistake! : D.

 

Psalm 139: 9-10

“If I take the wings of the dawn                                                                      If I dwell in the remotest part of the sea                                                                               Even there Your hand will lead me,                                                                            And Your right hand will lay hold of me”

Margaree Valley – by Karin (the mom)

For me, Margaree Valley is the heart of Cape Breton Island.

Our first introduction to the Valley, was the Margaree Beach. It seemed to take forever to reach it from Baddeck, but the scenery was awesome and the company great. As one of the last activities we could fit in with the Knechtle family before they had to leave, it was just perfect.

The temperature of the sea water was icy cold, like Yzerfontein in South Africa. (The locals told us that it was unusually warm that day.) Not many of us chose to swim, but there were plenty of other things to do. There is a very old building that is sliding down (and apparently have been for a long time) towards the sea. This apparition just begged to be explored.

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The McCormacks – Marike

The McCormacks

The MacCormack familiy is the pastoral family of the Baptist church in Baddeck.

We didn’t meet them until after the Knechtles had left. To tell the truth, we only met them on the third Sunday we spent in Cape Breton Island. On our second Sunday we still had our hired car and could drive through to the Margaree church.

On our third Sunday we didn’t have a car, so we couldn’t drive over to Margaree again. However, the McNiels, (friends of the Knechtles who attend the Margaree church), told us about a Baptist church in Baddeck.

It is always difficult going to a new church, knowing that you have no idea what you will find. It was a comfort that this one had been recommended to us by people we know, but it’s still not easy.

We (of course) walked to the church. It wasn’t very far and we found it with relative ease. Because of being six people, we tend to stand out when we go to a new church. It is even more noticeable when the gathering is small, as was the case in Baddeck. We weren’t familiar with the songs they sang but the soundness of te words were comforting.

After the service, we learned that it hadn’t actually been Phil MacCormack who had preached, but the yourh pastor from the Margaree church. The MacCormacks invited us to lunch at their house and we accepted.

The MacCormack family is made up of: Uncle Phil (Dad); Aunty Jennipher (Mom); Caleb (18); Naomi (16); Sarah (14) and Elijah (10). So, except for Elijah, who is about two years younger than Sophia, their ages complimented ours pretty well.

From them we got the full account that ‘Winter in Cape Breton means snow’. It was fun to not be the only exotic ones about. 😉 They told us that everything has heaters! All the houses are insulated, cars have mechanisms that heat the seats and the steering wheels – even the plumbing gets special treatment!

Another mind-set foreign to us is the “Summer job”. Coming from South Africa, there is never a minor job that a kid can do that somebody supporting a family doesn’t need more. You get the odd “Entrepreneurs day” and even kids who do a lot of odd jobs to save-up some money. But the complete ‘everybody gets a Summer job’ and that your Summer revolves around that fact,  just isn’t there.

We spent quite a lot of the following week with the MacCormacks. We hiked to a waterfall with them and that same night had a sleepover. We took all of our laundry to their house and they just accommodated us with the most gracious of smiles. I have tried out quite a few sentences to try and express just how comfortable and welcome we felt in their home, but I don’t think I’ll be able to express it exactly right. It was an amazing picture to me of how we are truly family if we are grounded in God’s love, part of His church.

Right to left: Caleb, my dad, me, my mom.

We were adopted into the McCormack household as if that were just the natural order of things!

Naomi McCormack

All through the week that we visited with the McCormacks, my Dad was watching the weather closely. We needed a weather window that would last us all the way to New York. (At that stage the plan was to shoot directly to New York.)

That weekend the McCormacks had a family camp they needed to attend, so we arranged to bring our laundry over early on the Friday.

We arrived and did laundry, visiting with them while we were there. Then our Dad came and announced that there was a hurricane on the radar. It never did anything spectacular – fizzled into a tropical storm before reaching New York. But it’s never smart to plan to be somewhere where there might be strong winds. So, since we weren’t sailing anymore, the McCormacks offered us a lift to the camp!

The McNeils had already offered us a ride to the camp, but at the time we had declined, since we were planning to leave Baddeck before the weekend. However, in the end everything worked out perfectly – we got a lift to the camp with the McCormacks and the McNeils said we could use their car to travel between camp and the boat during the weekend. *Sigh* Isn’t God’s timing wonderful?

We had an amazing weekend of camp, with people who really seek the Lord, wanting to know more about Him. We’ve been in some pretty strange churches on our trip so far, but we felt so very at home there. I actually miss the people I met there almost more than the people back in South Africa for two reasons: one, they are fresher in my memory, and two (the important one) I’ll probably not see them again in this life. So remembering makes me both sad and happy at the same time.

Left to right: Abby (not a McCormack); me and Sarah

Caleb left directly from the camp to drive through to Sidney, because he started University that week.  One of the things that stemmed from his moving out, was that we were given some sweaters he was throwing out. ^_^ Being too small for him to wear, they supplemented our “tropically-orientated” wardrobes somewhat. For us, their autumn really feels like our winter! (Imagine me puffing up like a little sparrow, all indignant and fluffy.)

Left to right: Uncle Phil; Elijah and Aunty Jennipher.

To us the week-and-a-bit that we knew the McCormacks, felt like a lot longer, and they will be sorely missed on our further travels!

 

 

 

Highland Village – by Marike

After the Knechtles left Canada to go back home to Trinidad, we hired a car for a week to explore Cape Breton.

One of the things we planned to do during our time with the car, was visit the “Highland Village museum”. We had no idea quite what to expect, (how long it would take, what it involved, etc.), but my Dad decided to book us for the ‘story time’ tour they offered at 2:30 in the afternoon.

We set out earlier than that, as we tend to want to see everything in DEPTH and it seems as though there is an unspoken law in Cape Breton that all the attractions are stationed 30 to 45 minutes’ drive away from Baddeck. Of course it is due to the unpopulated nature of the place, but it does get rather tiring when it takes your whole day to see one thing.

One mini-adventure on our way over happened when we had to cross a little finger of lake by ferry boat. It is attached to both shores with a cable. The cable is attached to the motor which pulls the ferry from one bank to the other and back again. It also provides a lot of stability to the ramp while cars are boarding and driving off.

dsc_0439When we arrived, they told us that the Highland village experience is way better during the story time tour. (I.e., don’t go before then.) So we decided to go and look for some nearby geocaches while waiting for the tour to start.

dsc_0445I really like geocaching. My Dad views it as a ‘do it if it doesn’t interfere with immediate plans’ kind of activity or a way to get us to go for a walk. I don’t think my sisters really do it just for the fun of finding the geocache. They’re more into it for other reasons. (For example, Franci likes bird watching, and going geocaching is an opportunity to walk around and see birds.)

dscn5033After finding three geocaches and a cute little scale model of a church, we headed back up the hill and met our tour guide.

 

After introductions we followed him on foot, to the top of the hill where he outlined the history of the Nova Scotia highlanders.

dsc_0487A brief summary would be that the Scots (Gaelic Scots for the most part, as far as I can remember), had immigrated to Nova Scotia. They all immigrated at different times and for different reasons. (Some to look for adventure, others for religious freedom, etc.)

The people we learned about specifically were the Highlanders. This group of Scots had not been permitted to speak their own language (Gaelic), wear their traditional dress or play the bagpipes. This all happened after some big battle in Scotland. The long used Clan custom where a chief owned the land and apportioned it to be worked was suddenly thrown out of balance when the chiefs were promoted to lords, and it all went downhill from there. The plain fact was that the Highlanders were oppressed, and whenever they could, they left Scotland.

dsc_0488

Breath taking view from the top of the hill.

Our tour followed a series of houses. Each of these are built in a certain style that relates to a different time period. Inside of each home, we found one or two people that seemed to belong there.

The first house we visited was a little sod house. From the door of the house you could see far out over the lake. They sky was really clear and blue that day, and the air wonderfully fresh. That’s something I really liked about Nova Scotia – everything seemed fresh! Little flowers in the grass, clear sky, cool wind. Tropics tend to be lacking in the “cool breeze” department.

The sod hut itself was fairly small, with grass growing on the roof. It had two doors, for the sake of the tourists. Real sod houses had only one door and a little one at that! It also had just one small window and a hole you could open in the roof.

Our “Story Time” visit meant that whenever we entered a dwelling, the guide would greet the residents in Gaelic. Then, after exchanging a few words, they would switch over into English. They told of the brother (imaginary) who had just gone out to fetch the sheep, the father who had decided to follow cousin Furges’ example and immigrate to Nova Scotia. They apologised for the lack of fire in the house, explaining how the landlord had come and put it out. (A bad omen.) They told of how they had to do things to keep the fairies from stealing the baby. The younger of the two women was sitting on a low stool in the gloom of the fireless house, using some kind of wooden block to hand-spin wool while she talked.

They told us how all the animals would sleep with them in the house, and how they had to keep the fairies happy with some oatcakes, among other things. A very superstitious people.

After we had exhausted the stock of questions we could think of at the time, we moved on to the next house. All the houses were arrayed on the top of the hill – mostly wooden structures. The sod hut being the only exception. A few other buildings such as the barn, the church, the smithy and the store were also stationed amongst these houses.

The next house was a house that would have been built by people living in Nova Scotia at a later time. It had quite a few people in it and what we mostly did there was sit in a room, having a ‘Ceilidh’. (Pronounced ‘Kay-lee.’)

dsc_0494They sang songs in Gaelic, explaining the meaning to us and also played some fiddle music. They told us some things about the people who live in Nova Scotia today and still speak Gaelic. In this house there were also examples of dyed wool and two types of spinning wheels.

dsc_0496On the table in the room next door we found a woven piece of wool cloth on the table. (Tell you more about that later.)

After that we were taken into the church, which our guide told us had been brought up from across the valley in one piece! Somehow they had lifted the whole wooden structure with a crane and had carted it all the way up the hill! It is quite a big church, so I suppose they just had big cranes.

dsc_0501The next house involved tea and oatcakes. (They call them oatcakes, but to me they are cookies 😉 ) We thoroughly enjoyed them, that’s for sure!

The times had moved on – our pleasantly plump hostess, who poured the tea with a smile – wore a dress made from printed fabric. The house boasted two wood stoves; one in the kitchen (it had kept our tea nice and hot while we were exploring the previous houses) and another in the sitting room. Neat black stoves with pipes running up into the roof. The one in the kitchen was bigger than the parlour version because it was used for cooking as well as heating the room.

Me siting at an identical loom in the last house we visited.

Me sitting at an identical loom that was in the last house we visited.

Our hostess was also kind enough to climb into the loom standing in the next room, so that she could demonstrate how it works. For the first time I understood it properly! I’m sorry to say you’ll have to look up on youtube if you want to know how it works – it’s too complicated for me to try and explain it without some visual aid . . .

 

 

 

 

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Our next stop was the “store”. Filled with everything you could not make for yourself in that time, it looks like an antique shop. ;P Old buttons behind glass, kegs of nails, hats on hat-stands and a big cash register on the counter that looks very imposing and important with all the brass working on its sides.

We briefly visited the smithy before going into our last house.

dsc_0509The last house had quite a lot of things going on in terms of furniture and gimmicks. Every room had it’s own wallpaper print! They told us something of the wakes people used to have when someone died. It would last for three whole days! They also told us how busy the house would be during that time.

 

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That house has a lot of modern conveniences. Since Alexander Graham Bell lived in Nova Scotia part time, it was one of the first places to get the telephone. This house has a big switchboard in a corner, and an old telephone on the wall. There is a “washing machine” in the kitchen, or what amounted to one in that time and all sorts of little gadgets to use for various tasks. (For example, a 2-D wire sock, so that the socks won’t shrink while they dry.)

Eating some berries that grows next to the houses during summer.

Eating some berries that grows next to the houses during summer. (Those specific berries were some kind of current berry. I didn’t really like them.)

We wrapped up our visit to this delightful “village” in a barn-like building where a big black machine stands looming in the background. There are some benches in front of it, and a TV in the corner with a film running that explains the whole wool process from start to finish. It was really an excellent way to tie up everything that we had learned about wool while visiting the homes.

The wool, after being harvested from the sheep, needed first of all to be cleaned thoroughly. Especially as the highlanders didn’t necessarily get the wool right off the sheep.Their sheep shed their winter wool coats, so often the highlanders would just pick the wool up from the ground.

The second step was to comb it, so that all the hairs were lying in the same direction. This is called ‘carding’ and used to be the most tedious part of processing the wool. It was done by hand with paddles with hooked nails in them. By scraping them over each other with the bent nails in opposite directions, they pulled the hair straight. This combing took forever, but eventually the combed out wool could be rolled into longish swathes of wool.

These rolags can then be spun. After the machines came, it was much easier to send your wool there to be carded since it took a lot less effort and less time. The result wasn’t quite as satisfactory but good enough.

Wool has tiny little barbs on each fibre, so when the wool is spun, it wants to stick together anyway. The spun wool can then be knitted or woven. (Interestingly enough, the highlanders didn’t know how to knit until after they had been in Nova Scotia quite a long while.) This is where the highlanders got their clothes.

Woven cloth must then first be shrunk before making clothes out of it, so that it will not shrink after the clothes has already been made. That was why there was a cloth on the table in the house where we had our ceilidh. The cloth needs to be soaked in a kind of soap (but in the time before that they used stale urine) and then banged and rubbed on the table. To pass the time and lighten the work, many people would work on one cloth, singing and exchanging stories. Having a ‘frolic’.

As is the norm for our family, we were the last people to leave the museum – the only other people around were the people who work there, who kindly, but firmly, pointed us toward the exit.

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The Two Rivers Park – by Franci

We always love visiting Zoos and Parks. We enjoy seeing animals that we have never seen before. : ).
The Two Rivers Park has a big, open area of green fields and a pond, but all the actual enclosures are located in the adjacent forest. Its almost as if you were walking on a path in the woods and there just happen to be wire between you and a whole lot of cool animals. Okay, maybe not quite, but really close : ).
I was happy to see the pond, because up until now I haven’t been able to just stop and look at the water fowl. (I usually just manage to see the birds as dark spots on the water before the car zips past). The birds on the pond were mostly Mallards (Anas platyrhynchos) with a few Canada Geese grazing next to the water. Mallards are the brown ducks with green heads that are usually drawn in children’s books and overall portrayed as the ‘stereotype duck’. After spending some time on the North American continent, I can understand why. They are always around when there is a body of water! Here’s a fun fact about ducks: If you look close enough at the beak you can see a ‘wolf’ posing as the bird’s beak. I’ll give you a tip: the duck’s nostrils are the wolf’s eyes. Now next time you see a duck try to see if you can find its hidden wolf ; ).

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Ducks look so funny when they feed. Their heads disappear under the water, with their tails left to wag at the sky. They really have to kick very hard to stay upside down like that, as their feathers are filled with air and they bop back up as soon as they stop kicking. If you look at underwater footage of them you can see that the ducks themselves seem quite comfortable, but they look soooo ridiculous. They swim in the complete opposite way compared to Puffins. Puffins use only their wings, but Ducks and Geese use only their feet. Ever wonder why a duck waddles? Because their feet are situated farther back on their bodies, enabling them to swim very effectively, but impeding their walk so that they waddle. It’s even more so with Penguins.
 *Ahem*, anyway. I already wrote a bird blog. So, on with the day. We had a great picnic at a table before entering the ‘animal part’ of the park. We were carefully watched during lunch by a rather jumpy red squirrel. It tried al sorts of ways to get closer without us noticing. It tried to get above us onto the little wooden roof, decided that wouldn’t work and then tried to sneak through the small plants just next to us. Sophia kept a vigilant eye and made sure the squirrel didn’t come close.

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At the entrance to the park you can buy small packets of interesting plant-based treats you can feed to some of the animals, especially the deer and caribou (moose). I was pleasantly surprised when my Dad bought four packets : ).
There are about 5 different large enclosures for the buck, each with its different kind of deer. These enclosures were so like the deer’s natural habitat with definite similarities to those forests we’d been driving past and hiking in. Main similarity being: We did not see any wildlife : /. There were lots of signs that the enclosures were actually inhabited by the advertised animals, like the numerous hoof prints running along the fence, but not much else. We did briefly glimpse the silhouette of a moose through the trees, though (all thanks to Sophia’s sharp eyes), but other than that our great hopes of seeing moose did not materialise : l We did see a whole bunch of God’s other amazing creatures, though : ).
The only deer enclosure in which we saw anything was the Reindeer one. We were just about to move past to the next animal when one solitary, big, male Reindeer came into the small wooden feeding house (each buck enclosure has one). We were thrilled and quickly proffered some of our treats in order to get him to stay. There’s a slit across the shed through which even a big horse would easily put its head, but because of its antlers the reindeer had to twist his head and even so only managed to get his head out a little way.

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When we stopped offering treats he came out of the shed and stood next to the fence where we could see him better.

 

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His antlers were huge! And they were covered in brown fuzz, which means they were still growing. Antlers are only bone, so when they grow, they need a layer of skin as protection. What I find really amazing is that these beasts regrow their antlers each year. When we walked past the enclosure again later, the Reindeer was still there, accepting treats from other admirers. One of the caretakers later told us they named him Rudolph, and he is the only one, out of all the bucks, that has cottoned on to the idea that treats are being handed out : P.

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Along with Rudolph, the smartest and/or greediest Reindeer, we saw many other things. There were big white Artic Wolves and Coyotes (one of which had a very direct stare of icy blue out of a dark face).

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A Lynx lying in the shade of a tree, two very lazy Black bears (especially the male) and two Pumas.
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But my favourites were the little guys. The Woodchuck (known to me as a Groundhog… I previously thought Woodchuck was a kind of squirrel), the Tree porcupine, the Raccoons and the, wait for it . . . Beavers : ). The Groundhog was actually quite funny, because they had made a beautiful home for it, but instead it dug itself a very well hidden hole in the far corner. I just love the irony of it ; P.
The Raccoons were very busy and constantly moving. They had lots of toys in their cage. There was a a tire suspended from the wire mesh above a yellow slide in the far back. No matter how much I telepathically willed them to, neither of the two Raccoons went down the slide : (. They were far to interested in us ; ). We offered them one or two treats, and they took them and even ate some of it, but it’s clear that the treats are not the Raccoon’s favourites. Raccoons only look as if they have disposable thumbs, but they’re faking it. Their paws are more like those of a bear, acting as a unit, rather than separate fingers. It’s cute and interesting how they awkwardly maneuver the treats around in their paws, rolling the treats back and forth between their palms to make it rise if they originally gripped it too high.

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And now the Beavers. I actually don’t know how to describe them. . .Wait, I know. They are like a big chocolate brown Dassie, teeth like that of a Mole and a tail like, uh, like – well, like a Platypus : P. There were two of them in the enclosure. One was demurely doing its own thing on land, and the other lazily swimming in the big sunken tub right next to the fence (sorry enclosure designers, it really does just look like a tub), lazily moving the small sticks about in the water.
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The Beaver did seem to spend more time under the water than above it. Every time the Beaver came swimming past we had a good look at it. The tails look almost wrong on them, because their bodies are covered in thick fur, but the tails are only covered in soft-looking scales. If beavers had not been so well known from the start I’m sure they would have made just as big a sensation as the Platypus. Each Beaver’s tail boasts it’s own selection of niches and scars. When we walked around the park the second time (quickly just before closing time), they were both on land and we gave them a few treats. They obliterated these in about three bites. Those treats were hard! I’m pretty sure all South Africans have eaten at least one rusk without dunking it in tea or coffee first. Hard work right? Imagine what jaw power and strong teeth it would take to bite through the rusk in just a couple of bites and with no apparent effort or loss of time. . . Well, we certainly gained a lot of respect for Beavers and it has now properly sunk in that that these guys are literally capable of chewing down trees. Remember, they are not even very big!
 Just as we were starting to go back along the paths to leave after a lovely day, we spied one of those red squirrels climbing into a dustbin next to the path. We weren’t really sure if perhaps the squirrel needed help, because the dustbin had one of those push-in lids and the squirrel could very well be trapped inside. My Dad, Sophia and I went over to the dustbin and he pushed in the lid to see if the squirrel actually was in the dustbin. I don’t know who had the bigger fright…. us or the squirrel! It was just inside the lid, probably on its way out again, and when my Dad disturbed it, it just zoomed past into a tree. It was very funny : )
 Our family have a Zoo system that’s working rather well so far. After looking at all the animals and doing the proper path, we go through the Zoo again. The second time only stopping at our favourite animals (like the Beavers) and to see if those hiding earlier had decided to pop up. We usually have less than an hour to complete this circuit (or semi-circle, or zig-zag, depending on whether or not we find shortcuts), before the Zoo closes. So far on our world trip, we have never left a Zoo or other Animal Park without the staff almost shoving us out ; P. The time just before the Zoo closes is actually the very best time, because it’s exactly when most of the animals are active. I can definitely encourage anyone going to a Zoo to stick around right till closing time and revisit all those animals that were hiding from you earlier the day : ).

 

The Louisbourg Fortress – by Sophia

 

 

 

The Highlands Park and Cabot Trail – by Karin (the Mom)

The Highlands Park of Cape Breton is a wildlife area that takes up most of the Northern Tip of the Island. There is really just one drivable road that runs along the outside of the Park. It is very scenic and is a natural extension of the well known Cabot trail. The views of the Atlantic Ocean are astounding. It is possible to see so far out to sea and it looks so scary, that we question our own sanity for venturing out on the ocean.

We initially thought that we could do the Highlands Park in only one day, but it soon became apparent that (for our family at least), this would be impossible. We wanted to stop more and see more than the time would allow us.

On our first day out to the Highlands, we stopped at a very interesting little roadside shop. It had a load of real Cape Breton memorabilia.

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Frans bought a “Lobster Sandwich”. This was going to be our chance to taste the local lobster, as they are a bit pricey for our budget. The yellow slogan on the black T-shirt to Sophia’s right, reads as follows:

“CAPE BRETON HIGHLANDS:

FEED THE BEARS

HIKE THE CLIFFS

RAFT THE WATERFALL

DRIVE FAST

PASS ON THE CURVE

RIDE THE MOOSE

Thanks for supporting the Local Paramedics”

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RIGHT: Marike is doing her best Moose impersonation next to the Moose Antlers outside the shop. It started out as a cloudy, misty, rainy day and Frans nearly aborted the trip.

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But, as we entered the Park, the sun came out to meet us and everything brightened up immediately.

There are many places for hiking from the road into the forest. We hiked up a constructed stairway to a viewpoint overlooking the visitor’s centre and Park entrance. As one enters the walk, there is a billboard with warnings against Moose and Coyote and Bear. It gives all kinds of instructions on what to do if you encounter these…

 

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Sophia was our” Safety Officer”. She kept on warning everybody and reading from her safety pamphlet as well. She was petrified that we would run into a dangerous animal and not know how to react.

Sadly, we never once saw any of these animals – no matter how hard we tried. It was a real let down for Sophia , I think.

RIGHT: Marike, Franci and Sophia at the top.

 

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LEFT: Frans and the two Karin’s with the view over the lakes.

 

 

 

 

 

Our next stop on our drive, was Green Cove. Here, we found a lot of Pink Gneiss rock that jut out to sea and make for some really great views.

dsc_0139RIGHT: Franci and I – resting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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LEFT: This is a nice family photo taken by Franci’s camera on a timed shot. Marike did her best to set up this photo by merging with the rocks as you can see below.

 

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RIGHT: Franci, cuddling against the cold wind that sweeps across the rocks. Even in Summer. All the plants in the area are quite stunted in their growth and the little trees are known as “krummholz”.

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Our next stop was a famous Chowder restaurant next to the Lighthouse at Neil’s Harbour. This was located just outside the Park at New Haven.

We were ravenous and the food smelled and looked delicious. Unfortunately, it was filled to the brim with customers and we had to wait about one and a half hours to sample the fair! Not possible in our busy schedule. 🙁

 

 

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So, just to tide us over, we shared Frans’ lobster sandwich. At least we could enjoy the view.

I don’t know what we expected of the sandwich, but it was a bit of a disappointment in terms of flavour. Just maybe, it was due to the smells coming from the little restaurant.

 

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From here the road curves away from the Park through the little town of Dingwall.

Dingwall’s boast to fame is a really neat lighthouse and museum.

This  iron-cast lighthouse was dismantled at its original home on the Island of St. Paul and transported here to Dingwall. In this way, many more people (including us) can hear the story of this brave little lighthouse and its courageous keepers during its storm riddled lifetime.

 

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The little museum was very informative and the Curator super friendly. She told us all the local stories and unlocked the lighthouse for us especially, so that we could climb up the tower.

From the outside the lighthouse looks very solid, but on the inside it is possible to see all the separate panels of which it was assembled.

RIGHT: Sophia and Franci with the Curator as she shows us the rare Fresenel lamp.

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Well, by this time the lobster sandwich was long forgotten, so we bought some pizza and headed back to the Park to find a picnic spot in which to enjoy it..

 

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RIGHT: A bear-proof dustbin as seen from above.

The mechanism to open the bin requires the operator to insert their fingers into a thin slot.

The paw of a bear will not be able to slide into the crevice to open it.

 

 

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Our last hiking stop for the day was the Lone Shieling situated in the oldest Maple Forest in Cape Breton in the Grand Anse Valley. This area holds Maple trees of at least 350 years old.

The Shieling is a replica of an old Scottish crofters hut.dscn4905

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most of the greenery at the bottom are little trees that are waiting for their place in the sun. As soon as an old tree dies and opens up some sunshine, the little saplings will start to grow.dsc_0196

 

 

 

 

 

 

This notice board gave a very good description of the types of trees that we could expect and how to identify them by looking at their leaves

 

 

 

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The trees were absolutely magnificent and we could have spent hours under this restful canopy.

This was a great way to end our first day in the Highlands Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

For day number two, we were much better prepared in terms of provisions.dsc_0378

 

The local McNeill family assured us that the Dancing Goat is the best restaurant that we will find anywhere in the world. So…. we just had to buy some “padkos” from them.

 

 

 

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This day would be dedicated to the famous Skyline trail. A much publicized feature of the Highlands Park.

Here we are at the entrance to the walk. For the others to see what route we should take – and for me…. to see if it doesn’t look too hard and if maybe I should be playing sick?

 

 

 

 

The 7km trail was not hard at all. At first it is quite a wide concrete path, but on the less traveled back part it becomes a little dirt trail. We completely expected to see some Moose. We know of others who saw them and we could also find some Moose prints in muddy places

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When we asked some hikers passing whether they’ve seen any Moose, the lady said “No! And I’m sooo glad! I am terrified of seeing one.” We decided that she must just be naturally squeamish and resumed our active searching of the woods.

 

The most frequented part of the trail runs along the skyline with a magnificent view of the ocean beyond.

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There are signs everywhere to warn people not to stray from the wooden walkway as this can damage the plants.

Nowhere do they warn you about the wind!!

There are many places on the way down where we needed to hunch down so that we would not be blown away.

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In the picture on the right Marike is leaning into the wind.

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When we got to the bottom-most part, we literally hid from the wind. There were seats right at the edge of the platform to sit on and enjoy the view, but that day there were no takers.

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As we exited the park, Franci took a picture of the only Moose we managed to see in Canada. In retrospect, it was probably a good thing. For since then we have had at least two narrations in which people described their own personal encounters with Moose.

Moose are very aggressive and will even head-butt your motor vehicle. Causing considerable damage and fright.

 

 

We made it back to the car just in time to miss the rainstorm that broke out over the mountains. dsc_0433

This meant that we actually ate our “padkos” in the car. It certainly was delicious.

When we have completed our circumnavigation, we will let you know whether the McNeill family was right. The verdict is still out on this one

 

 

 

 

dsc_0231Once the sun came back out, we could stop at some magnificent viewpoints on our way back. On the signposts these are called “Look offs”. At least they are not naming them “Fall offs”.dsc_0246

Some roadside fun to end off our visit.